Gaps Between Floorboards

Hardwood floors are renowned for their enduring allure, yet the issue of noticeable gaps between floorboards, especially in older urban villas, is a common challenge. Despite advancements in engineered wood flooring, these gaps persist due to the intrinsic qualities of real wood. This piece delves into the origins of these gaps, their impact on aesthetics, and practical remedies for homeowners.

1. Grasping the Inherent Traits of Wood:
Real wood, the primary material in engineered boards, has a distinctive property of expanding and contracting with shifts in humidity. Analogous to a sponge, wood expands when saturated with water and contracts as it dries. Moreover, the organic nature of wood may result in slight bending of floorboards, deemed normal.

2. Aesthetic Contemplations:
While engineered wood flooring mitigates gap occurrence, it doesn’t eradicate them entirely. Homeowners hold diverse views on these gaps; some embrace them as part of the genuine charm of real wood floors, while others lean towards a more seamless appearance. The choice between click-lock systems and traditional tongue and groove joining systems influences gap likelihood.

3. Click-Lock Systems vs. Tongue and Groove Joining:
Click-lock systems, prevalent in laminate flooring, provide a seamless look by securely binding floorboards, accommodating collective expansion and contraction. In contrast, tongue and groove joining systems may exhibit gaps between boards and other design elements, such as stair nosings. Both systems find widespread acceptance in the architectural and design community.

4. Tackling Gaps:
Homeowners averse to visible gaps have options to minimize their impact. Click-lock systems, especially when installed floating over underlay, diminish gap visibility. Alternatively, larger gaps can be addressed with colored fillers, preserving the authenticity of real wood while addressing aesthetic concerns.

5. Climate Conditions and Seasonal Fluctuations:
Gaps in wood floorboards may become more apparent during or after installation, but it’s crucial not to panic. Immediate post-installation gaps can be lessened with colored filler, while those developing over time may naturally close up with changes in climatic conditions and seasons. Manufacturers recommend maintaining interior humidity levels between 40-60% to minimize floorboard movement.

Understanding the nature of gaps between wood floorboards, appreciating the available aesthetic choices, and knowing how to address and minimize these gaps contribute to a comprehensive approach for homeowners seeking the perfect balance between the allure of real wood and a visually appealing floor.

Using Complementing Woods on Walls, Ceilings and Cabinetry

The use of complementing woods on walls, ceilings and cabinetry is for the individualist who appreciates the beauty intrinsic to wood.

With Admonter’s range of wall cladding and panels, you can easily lift your interior to an inspiring level. You may choose to use either matching wood colours (the same as your Admonter natural wood floorboards), or complementing colours combined with unique textures to encourage an organic, natural ambience.

Panels: Natural wood panels from Admonter let you give full rein to your creativity in all manner of different situations, whether you chose a classic hardwood or reclaimed and aged wood panel, Admonter wood panels have earned a name for themselves.

Cladding: A range of wall elements are available such as Galleria or CUBE. These are interlocking engineered wood panels that work in a similar way to floorboards (installed in a random/brick pattern). This special range of cladding features textures and designs not possible to achieve with floorboards.

Admonter Galleria Reclaimed Wood H2 Hacked

Admonter Cube

Of course you may also use our floorboards on walls and ceilings and many of our clients choose to do so.

Under Floor Heating and Timber Flooring

Under floor heating creates one of the most challenging environments in which to lay a floor. The wider the plank, the more potential for expansion and contraction of the wood floor. Heating the floor can cause further plank movement.

Excessive plank movement can lead to twisting, cupping and warping. That’s why it’s vital to only use perfectly engineered wood flooring with underfloor heating.

Quick Tips

It’s important to follow manufacturer guidelines when installing timber flooring with underfloor heating. Follow the specific manufacturer’s process to slowly heat the concrete slab prior to the start of flooring installation.

Ensure the heating coils or cables cover ALL areas where there will be timber flooring.

When using the heating system the floor surface temperature should not exceed 27 degrees Celsius. Note that rugs may cause hot-spots in the timber flooring that may compromise the structure of the floorboard.

Key to Success – Engineered Plank Construction

The construction and quality of the floorboard is the key to success with underfloor heating. Only engineered floorboards should be specified for use with underfloor heating systems.

The term ‘engineered’ means a floorboard made up of 3-layers or multiple layers of wood; similar to plywood. This engineered board structure is approximately 70% more stable than solid wood flooring (meaning it expands and contracts much less than solid wood floorboards do).

Unsurpassed Stability – Admonter Engineered Plank Construction

While the engineered floorboards described above will perform adequately with underfloor heating, for a more advanced solution we recommend the Admonter 3-ply engineered floorboard. This is an evolution of the engineered flooring structure, a 3-layer plank consisting of upper and lower layers of the same thickness. This structure provides perfect tension to keep all forces in check and ensure that your Admonter engineered wood flooring will remain perfectly flat when used with underfloor heating or in any other challenging environment, such as in very humid or dry climates.

What Goes First – The Kitchen or the Flooring

Kitchen Or Flooring First?

This is a very common question that we’re asked time and again. It is actually possible to install the flooring both before or after the kitchen, depending on the intended installation method; floating or glued down.

Floating Installation

If you’re floating your timber or laminate flooring then you should always install the kitchen first and install the flooring around the kitchen units. This allows free movement of the floor boards as they expand and contract with humidity fluctuations. If the kitchen was sitting on top of the floating floor its weight may restrict the movement of the floorboards and potentially cause floor boards to start lifting. The end panels of the cabinets can be undercut so the flooring can slide underneath, for a clean finish. Flooring is installed just under the kick panels and all the way under any appliances (that are not built-in). The kick panels should be left off until after flooring is installed and then put in place last.

Glued Down Installation

For glued down wooden flooring you can either install around the kitchen cabinets or you can install the flooring first. We highly recommend installing the flooring first; this ensures a premium finish at the bottom of cabinet ‘end panels’ as your installer won’t have to cut into them on-site. It also ensures boards are installed all the way to the walls, so if you do happen to modify your kitchen in future for whatever reason, you won’t have to install any more flooring at a later date.

We have experience with both methods, so please feel free to contact us for obligation-free advice.

Oak Castle Grey