How Hard-Wearing are NZ Timber Floors, Compared with European Oak?

Did you know that a person wearing stilettos can exert more force on a single stiletto point than an elephant? That is the amount of force that our flooring is susceptible to.

A large number of New Zealand homes have native timber floors. They are thought to be reasonably hard-wearing (although many species do often show dents from wear). In many cases this flooring needs to be extended or refurbished and the cost to do so can be a prohibitive.

An alternative option is to introduce an overlay timber flooring to the home. As such, we are often asked about the hardness of European Oak compared to New Zealand native timber floors. The Janka Hardness Test is a great way to offer a comparison between timber species.

The Janka Hardness Test is used to measure the resistance of a sample of wood, to denting and wear.  The results can compare the relative hardness of different species. It is determined by pressing a small steel ball into the wood.  The test measures the force required to embed the ball half way (creating an indentation that measures one square centermeter. 

European oak has a relatively high rating on the Janka scale, making it a durable choice for flooring.  It is not the hardest on the scale, but oak has become a popular choice due to accessibility, a desirable aesthetic, ability to forest sustainably and it is relatively easy to work with for a hard wood.

Some New Zealand native timbers, such as totara and rimu, also rank relatively high on the Janka scale, but are limited in availability for flooring. Other native timbers, such as kauri and matai, rank lower on the scale and may be less resistant to wear and tear.

The hardness test is expressed as kilograms-force (kgs), newtons (N) or pounds-force (lbf).  The following shows a comparison of New Zealand Natives and other popular species expressed in lbf:

• Brazilian cherry: 2,820 lbf

• Totara: 2,040 lbf
• Jarrah: 2,020 lbf

• Maple: 1,450 lbf

• European Oak: 1,350 lbf
• Teak: 1,155 lbf
• Rimu: 1,010 lbf
• Kauri: 890 lbf
• Matai: 940 lbf

Each species has a number unique properties.  The wear resistance and hardness of timber is important, but it is just one factor to consider when choosing flooring.  

For more information, see below:

Click Here

How Hard-Wearing are NZ Native Timber Floors?

Many New Zealand homes have native timber floors. They are known to be reasonably hard-wearing (although many species do often show dents from wear). In many cases this flooring needs to be extended or refurbished and often the cost to do so can be prohibitive.

Alternative options are to introduce an overlay timber flooring to the home.  As such, we are often asked about the hardness of European Oak compared to New Zealand native timber floors.

The Janka scale is used to measure the hardness of wood and compare the relative hardness of different species. It is determined by pressing a small steel ball into the wood with a set amount of force and measuring the depth of the indentation. This measure is expressed as an lbf value (pounds of force).

European oak has a high rating on the Janka scale, making it a durable choice for flooring. In comparison to other types of timber, such as pine and fir, European oak ranks relatively high on the scale. Some New Zealand native timbers, such as totara and rimu, also rank relatively high on the Janka scale. Other native timbers, such as kauri and matai, rank lower on the scale and may be less resistant to wear and tear.

The following shows a comparison of New Zealand Natives and other popular species:

•   Maple: 1,450 lbf

•   Brazilian cherry: 2,820 lbf

•   Jarrah: 2,020 lbf

•   Teak: 1,155 lbf

•   Totara: 2,040 lbf

•   Rimu: 1,010 lbf

•   Kauri: 890 lbf

•   Matai: 940 lbf

•   European Oak: 1,350 lbf

Compared to most New Zealand natives, European timber rates much higher on the Janka hardness scale.

The Janka scale is just one factor to consider when choosing timber flooring, as other factors such as appearance, price, and availability may also be important. However, the Janka scale can help you choose a durable and suitable type of flooring.

The Differences Between Oiled & Lacquered Timber Floors

Engineered oak timber flooring is a popular choice for homeowners and businesses due to its durability and versatility. When choosing engineered oak flooring, one important decision is whether to opt for an oiled finish or a lacquered finish. Here are the pros and cons of each option:

Oiled Oak Flooring Pros:

  1. Natural look: Oiled oak flooring has the most natural and organic appearance.
  2. Easy maintenance: Oiled oak flooring is relatively easy to maintain, as it only requires occasional re-oiling to keep it looking its best. This can be done using a special oil and a soft cloth, and the process is generally quick and straightforward.
  3. Better timber experience: Oiled oak flooring has a softer and more comfortable feel underfoot than a lacquered floor because you are in direct contact with the timber. An oiled floor will never crack, blister or flake off, because there is no coating to sit on top.
  4. Pore expression: The open-pored wood regulates humidity levels for a heathy indoor climate. As the room increases and decreases in humidity, the flooring will take on more or less moisture.
  5. Environmental benefits: Oiled oak flooring is considered to be more environmentally friendly than lacquered flooring, as it does not contain any harmful chemicals or solvents.
  6. Spot repairs: Many oiled finishes can be spot-repaired, eliminating the need for future sanding and refinishing.

Oiled Oak Flooring Cons:

  1. Susceptible to water damage: Although it can be largely managed, oiled oak flooring is more prone to water damage than lacquered flooring. It may not be the best choice for areas of the home or business that are prone to moisture, or are not likely to maintain the floor.
  2. Requires frequent maintenance: While oiled oak flooring is relatively easy to maintain, it does require more frequent attention than lacquered flooring in order to keep it looking its best. Without maintenance, an oiled floor will be more susceptible to staining. A typical maintenance program for a residential home would mean oiling the floor every 24 months.
  3. Can’t use standard cleaners: Standard cleaning products will lift oils. An oiled floor requires specific cleaning products to ensure effective care.

Lacquered Oak Flooring Pros:

  1. Durability: Lacquered oak flooring is more durable and resistant to wear and tear than oiled flooring, making it a good choice for high-traffic areas.
  2. Easy maintenance: Lacquered oak flooring is relatively easy to maintain, as it only requires occasional dusting and sweeping to keep it looking its best.
  3. Resistant to water damage: Lacquered oak flooring is more resistant to water damage than oiled flooring, making it a good choice for areas of the home or business that are prone to moisture.
  4. Can be natural looking: The latest matt lacquer floor coatings can look extremely natural.

Lacquered Oak Flooring Cons:

  1. Artificial appearance: Lacquered oak flooring can have a more artificial or synthetic appearance than oiled flooring, which may not be appealing to those who prefer a more natural look.
  2. Hard feel: Lacquered oak flooring can have a harder and more unforgiving feel underfoot than oiled. When touching a lacquered floor, you are in contact with the lacquer, rather than the timber.
  3. Repairs are more difficult: Spot repairs and minor scratches are not as easy to repair as with oiled floors.
  4. Refurbishment is costly: Most lacquered floors eventually require refurbishing which can be a disruptive and costly exercise. Refurbishing a lacquered floor requires removing all furniture, sanding and refinishing. (A lacquered finish should last 10 to 15 years).
  5. Environmental impact: Contains chemicals: Lacquered oak flooring is made with chemicals and solvents, which can be harmful to the environment

Ultimately, the choice between oiled and lacquered oak flooring comes down to personal preference and the specific needs of your space. Consider the look and feel you want for your floor, as well as the level of maintenance you are willing to commit to and the environmental impacts of your choice.

Floating Timber Floor Installation vs Glue-Down Installation

Choosing between a floating timber floor installation and a glue-down method is a key decision for any flooring project. Each approach has unique benefits and suitability depending on your needs. Here’s a comparison to help you decide which option is right for you.

What is a Floating Timber Floor Installation?

A floating timber floor rests on an underlay rather than being fixed directly to the subfloor. The planks click together, creating a stable, secure surface that “floats” above the base.

Benefits of Floating Floors:

  • Ease of Installation: Ideal for DIY projects, thanks to the click-lock mechanism.
  • Cost-Effective: No adhesives or nails are required, reducing materials and labour costs.
  • Subfloor Flexibility: Can be installed over various surfaces, including concrete or tiles.
  • Movability: Easily removed or replaced, making it perfect for renters or those planning future renovations.

Limitations of Floating Floors:

  • Less Soundproof: Without adhesive, sound can transmit through the layers.
  • Not Ideal for Wet Areas: Floating floors may not be suitable for high-moisture spaces like bathrooms.

What is Glue-Down Installation?

Glue-down timber floors are fixed directly to the subfloor with a high-quality adhesive. This creates a seamless bond, enhancing the floor’s stability and longevity.

Benefits of Glue-Down Floors:

  • Superior Stability: The adhesive bond minimises movement and provides a solid feel underfoot.
  • Enhanced Acoustics: The glued surface reduces noise transmission and echoing.
  • Durable and Long-Lasting: Ideal for high-traffic areas and commercial spaces.
  • Better for Wet Areas: With the right sealant, glue-down floors can handle moisture better than floating options.

Limitations of Glue-Down Floors:

  • Complex Installation: Requires professional expertise, especially on uneven subfloors.
  • Higher Costs: Adhesives and skilled labour add to the expense.
  • Permanent Fix: Removing glue-down floors can be difficult and time-consuming.

Which Installation Method is Right for You?

Choose Floating Floors If:

  • You want a quick, cost-effective installation.
  • Your subfloor is even and dry.
  • You need flexibility for future changes or renovations.

Choose Glue-Down Floors If:

  • You require maximum stability and soundproofing.
  • The area experiences heavy foot traffic.
  • You are installing flooring in wet or commercial spaces.

Both floating timber floor installation and glue-down methods have their place in modern flooring. Your choice depends on your project’s requirements, your budget, and the conditions of your subfloor.

When in doubt, consult a flooring expert to ensure the best outcome for your space. No matter the method, high-quality timber floors add beauty, warmth, and value to your home.

You May Be Interested In:

Oil vs Lacquer Finish

Wood finish options available are Natural oil, UV oil, or lacquer (polyurethane).

NATURAL OIL FINISH

Natural oil finishes do not leave a film on the surface of the wood like polyurethane, instead the special 100% natural oils seep into the wood layer and harden, creating an incredibly beautiful and durable surface, leaving the wood pores open so you can enjoy the natural wood surface as nature intended. If you maintain the floor well you may never need to sand and refinish the entire surface of a Natural oiled floor, as scratches can easily be spot-repaired by the home owner – simply sand the scratch and apply more oil (this can only be done if the correct oil colour is available for touch-up’s).

Natural oiled floors develop a beautiful patina and character over time and often become even more attractive as they age.

It’s important to note that these finishes can age with ‘character’; this will depend on wear and tear – for example certain foodstuffs or liquids may leave a discolouration. Cleaning up spills immediately can help immensely. New generation finishes can often be applied as a top coat, to add a higher level of protection against potential staining.

Natural oiled wood feels wonderful to walk on with bare feet, and the open pored surface is warm to the touch and slip resistant. The open pored surface allows the wood to breathe, regulating moisture in the air, for a healthier home environment. Natural oiled floors have a great resistance to wear and are also suitable for commercial purposes.

Residential care: Mop every 2-3 weeks with Admonter or Ciranova Soap. Do not use any other cleaning product on oiled wood floors! Apply Admonter maintenance oil every 12-36 months, or Ciranova Maintenance Oil every 12 months depending on wear. View full care instructions on the product listing.

UV OIL FINISH

The oil finish is dried during production under UV lamps, making the wood surface very durable and easy to care for. UV oiled floors are a great compromise between natural oiled and polyurethane finishes – they give a similar appearance to a natural oiled finish, but are a bit more forgiving than natural oiled finishes if mistreated through a lack of maintenance. UV oiled floors tend to be more resistant to staining compared to natural oil finishes.

UV oiled floors are cared for in a similar manner to Natural Oiled wood floors.

Residential care: Mop every 2-3 weeks with Admonter or Ciranova Soap. Do not use any other cleaning product on oiled wood floors! Apply Ciranova Maintenance Oil every 12-24 months depending on wear. View full care instructions on the product listing.

LACQUER / POLYURETHANE FINISH

Acrylic matt lacquer (polyurethane) entirely seals the pores of the wood, providing excellent wear and chemical resistance. This acrylic lacquering is elastic and absolutely uncomplicated in care. An additional “anti-scratch” coating makes the floor extremely durable and resistant.

Lacquers have become very natural looking in recent times – ask us about Supermatt lacquer or Pureline lacquer.

Lacquer finishes will eventually require refurbishment, involving a full sanding and several coats of new lacquer.

Residential care: Use Admonter Clean and Care or BONA wood floor cleaner, apply by mop every 2-3 weeks. Vacuum or sweep in between times.

Quiet Floors

CREATING FLOORING FOR LIVING

We’ve worked with top suppliers in Europe to find acoustic systems that genuinely work—making timber floors quieter and more comfortable underfoot.

Acoustic Adhesive

Wood flooring parquet glue

New generation MS hybrid polymer adhesives offer a superior acoustic performance.

Best results are achieved when using Parabond Parquet 480 as a combined moisture barrier & adhesive; the thicker layer of adhesive used to ensure moisture protection dries to a rubber-like consistency, providing excellent acoustic performance.

Parabond is made in Belgium and is imported exclusively by Vienna Woods.

Acoustic Underlay

For peak values in acoustic & load.

SELITPRO® 2.2 mm uses a smart double-foam system that improves both sound performance and strength—ideal for upstairs areas or apartments where noise matters.

The SELITPRO® 2.2 mm AquaStop is equipped with an AquaStop surface and optimally protects the floor against moisture with a sd-value ≥ 200 m.

We also stock 3mm Aquastop underlay.

SELITPRO® underlay is made in Germany and imported exclusively by Vienna Woods.

Mapecem CR

This 4mm thick cork/rubber underlay provides excellent acoustic performance and is an ideal solution when a high performing underlay is required.

We typically glue the underlay to the substrate and then glue the wood flooring directly to the underlay.

Perfect for apartments where a glued down wood floor is desired.