How to choose the right colour and style of engineered timber flooring for your home

Choosing the right colour and style of engineered timber flooring for your home can be a big decision, as it will have a significant impact on the look and feel of your space. Here are some tips to help you choose the right colour and style of engineered timber flooring for your home:

 

  1. Consider the style of your home: The colour and style of your engineered timber flooring should complement the overall style of your home. For example, a rustic, hand-scraped finish may be a good choice for a traditional home, while a glossy, modern finish may be better suited to a contemporary home.
  2. Think about the size of your space: The colour and style of your engineered timber flooring can also impact the perceived size of your space. For example, light-coloured flooring can make a small space feel larger and airier, while dark-coloured flooring can make a large space feel cosier.
  3. Consider the lighting in your home: The lighting in your home can also affect the appearance of your engineered timber flooring. For example, a flooring colour that looks warm and golden in natural light may appear orange or yellow under artificial light.
  4. Test out samples: Before making a decision, it is a good idea to test out a few different colour and style samples in your home. This will allow you to see how the flooring looks in your space and help you make an informed decision.
  5. Get a professional opinion: If you are still unsure about which colour and style of engineered timber flooring is right for your home, consider consulting with a professional designer or flooring specialist. They can offer valuable advice and guidance based on your specific needs and preferences.

By following these tips, you can find the perfect colour and style of engineered timber flooring for your home.

Engineered timber flooring vs solid wood: which is right for you?

When it comes to choosing wood flooring for your home, you may be wondering whether to go with solid wood or engineered timber. Both options have their pros and cons, and the right choice for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences. Here are some factors to consider when deciding between engineered timber flooring and solid wood:

  1. Stability: Engineered timber flooring is made from layers of wood that are fused together, making it more stable than solid wood. This means it is less prone to expanding and contracting with changes in temperature and humidity, making it a good choice for homes in areas with fluctuating weather conditions. This is especially beneficial for homes based in Auckland where the temperatures and humidity levels can fluctuate greatly.
  2. Durability: Solid wood is a durable flooring option, but it can be prone to scratches, dents, and other types of damage. Engineered timber flooring is also durable, but it is typically more resistant to wear and tear than solid wood.
  3. Installation: Solid wood flooring must be nailed or glued to a subfloor, which can be a more labor-intensive and time-consuming process. Engineered timber flooring can often be installed using a floating method, which means it can be laid on top of an existing floor without the need for glue or nails.
  4. Cost: Solid wood flooring can be more expensive than engineered timber flooring, especially if you choose a high-quality wood species. However, the lifespan of solid wood flooring is generally longer than that of engineered timber, which means it may be a more cost-effective choice in the long run.
  5. Appearance: Both solid wood and engineered timber flooring can have a beautiful, natural appearance.

In summary, both solid wood and engineered timber flooring have their own unique benefits and drawbacks. To determine which is the right choice for you, consider factors such as stability, durability, installation, cost, and appearance.

How Hard-Wearing are NZ Native Timber Floors?

Many New Zealand homes have native timber floors. They are known to be reasonably hard-wearing (although many species do often show dents from wear). In many cases this flooring needs to be extended or refurbished and often the cost to do so can be prohibitive.

Alternative options are to introduce an overlay timber flooring to the home.  As such, we are often asked about the hardness of European Oak compared to New Zealand native timber floors.

The Janka scale is used to measure the hardness of wood and compare the relative hardness of different species. It is determined by pressing a small steel ball into the wood with a set amount of force and measuring the depth of the indentation. This measure is expressed as an lbf value (pounds of force).

European oak has a high rating on the Janka scale, making it a durable choice for flooring. In comparison to other types of timber, such as pine and fir, European oak ranks relatively high on the scale. Some New Zealand native timbers, such as totara and rimu, also rank relatively high on the Janka scale. Other native timbers, such as kauri and matai, rank lower on the scale and may be less resistant to wear and tear.

The following shows a comparison of New Zealand Natives and other popular species:

•   Maple: 1,450 lbf

•   Brazilian cherry: 2,820 lbf

•   Jarrah: 2,020 lbf

•   Teak: 1,155 lbf

•   Totara: 2,040 lbf

•   Rimu: 1,010 lbf

•   Kauri: 890 lbf

•   Matai: 940 lbf

•   European Oak: 1,350 lbf

Compared to most New Zealand natives, European timber rates much higher on the Janka hardness scale.

The Janka scale is just one factor to consider when choosing timber flooring, as other factors such as appearance, price, and availability may also be important. However, the Janka scale can help you choose a durable and suitable type of flooring.

The Differences Between Oiled & Lacquered Timber Floors

Engineered oak timber flooring is a popular choice for homeowners and businesses due to its durability and versatility. When choosing engineered oak flooring, one important decision is whether to opt for an oiled finish or a lacquered finish. Here are the pros and cons of each option:

Oiled Oak Flooring Pros:

  1. Natural look: Oiled oak flooring has the most natural and organic appearance.
  2. Easy maintenance: Oiled oak flooring is relatively easy to maintain, as it only requires occasional re-oiling to keep it looking its best. This can be done using a special oil and a soft cloth, and the process is generally quick and straightforward.
  3. Better timber experience: Oiled oak flooring has a softer and more comfortable feel underfoot than a lacquered floor because you are in direct contact with the timber. An oiled floor will never crack, blister or flake off, because there is no coating to sit on top.
  4. Pore expression: The open-pored wood regulates humidity levels for a heathy indoor climate. As the room increases and decreases in humidity, the flooring will take on more or less moisture.
  5. Environmental benefits: Oiled oak flooring is considered to be more environmentally friendly than lacquered flooring, as it does not contain any harmful chemicals or solvents.
  6. Spot repairs: Many oiled finishes can be spot-repaired, eliminating the need for future sanding and refinishing.

Oiled Oak Flooring Cons:

  1. Susceptible to water damage: Although it can be largely managed, oiled oak flooring is more prone to water damage than lacquered flooring. It may not be the best choice for areas of the home or business that are prone to moisture, or are not likely to maintain the floor.
  2. Requires frequent maintenance: While oiled oak flooring is relatively easy to maintain, it does require more frequent attention than lacquered flooring in order to keep it looking its best. Without maintenance, an oiled floor will be more susceptible to staining. A typical maintenance program for a residential home would mean oiling the floor every 24 months.
  3. Can’t use standard cleaners: Standard cleaning products will lift oils. An oiled floor requires specific cleaning products to ensure effective care.

Lacquered Oak Flooring Pros:

  1. Durability: Lacquered oak flooring is more durable and resistant to wear and tear than oiled flooring, making it a good choice for high-traffic areas.
  2. Easy maintenance: Lacquered oak flooring is relatively easy to maintain, as it only requires occasional dusting and sweeping to keep it looking its best.
  3. Resistant to water damage: Lacquered oak flooring is more resistant to water damage than oiled flooring, making it a good choice for areas of the home or business that are prone to moisture.
  4. Can be natural looking: The latest matt lacquer floor coatings can look extremely natural.

Lacquered Oak Flooring Cons:

  1. Artificial appearance: Lacquered oak flooring can have a more artificial or synthetic appearance than oiled flooring, which may not be appealing to those who prefer a more natural look.
  2. Hard feel: Lacquered oak flooring can have a harder and more unforgiving feel underfoot than oiled. When touching a lacquered floor, you are in contact with the lacquer, rather than the timber.
  3. Repairs are more difficult: Spot repairs and minor scratches are not as easy to repair as with oiled floors.
  4. Refurbishment is costly: Most lacquered floors eventually require refurbishing which can be a disruptive and costly exercise. Refurbishing a lacquered floor requires removing all furniture, sanding and refinishing. (A lacquered finish should last 10 to 15 years).
  5. Environmental impact: Contains chemicals: Lacquered oak flooring is made with chemicals and solvents, which can be harmful to the environment

Ultimately, the choice between oiled and lacquered oak flooring comes down to personal preference and the specific needs of your space. Consider the look and feel you want for your floor, as well as the level of maintenance you are willing to commit to and the environmental impacts of your choice.

Oiled Floors Care Guide

There are two different types of oiled floors: hardwax oiled and UV oiled. Hardwax oiled requires more frequent oiling. UV oiled means that the oil has been applied and cured under UV light to make it more durable. UV oiled floors do not need oiling postinstallation.

HARDWAX OIL FINISH – QUICK GUIDE

  • Oil after installation – vacuum, wash and oil as soon as possible after installation
  • Oil annually to feed the wood and maintain protection against staining
  • Top up oil in high-traffic or dry areas as needed
  • Spot treat scratches with oil
  • Never use solvents, chemicals, steam mops or excessive water (damp mop only)
  • Use a floor ‘soap’ for oiled floors only
  • Do not rub the floor hard – the oil finish may be removed

Purchase suitable floor soaps here. 

HOW TO OIL THE FLOOR

 

  1. Vacuum/sweep floor. Do not introduce any moisture to the floor until Maintenance Oil has been applied.
  2. Wash floor using a damp mop and Floor Soap solution. Allow to dry.
  3. Apply Maintenance Oil according to our instructions (separate sheet) – we recommend Ciranova Maintenance Oil which can be applied with a standard microfibre mop. This should be done at least annually to protect the floor surface, or more often if necessary, in high traffic areas or if the wood is looking dry. See tutorial video: https://vimeo.com/146767775
  4. 1 litre of Maintenance oil covers approximately 100m2.
  5. Oil takes 6-12 hours to dry fully but can be walked on immediately with socks. Good airflow helps, humidity may slow drying.

Do not use water or cleaning solutions on floor for the first 10 days after maintenance oil application; take care to ensure the floor surface is kept free from dirt and moisture during this time. Vacuum/sweep floor only during this time.

Purchase Maintenance Oil here // Purchase suitable floor soaps here. 

HOW TO OIL THE FLOOR WITH ADMONTER MAINTENANCE OIL

 

  1. Admonter maintenance oil (shake well before use) to be used sparingly (1 litre is sufficient for approx. 70 – 100 m2).
  2. Distribute the oil evenly with the use of an oil-sponge, soft cloth or spray can. The quantity of maintenance oil applied
  3. may vary due to the different absorption of the wood.
  4. Polish the floor using a polishing machine and a white pad.
  5. Buff off with cotton cloths applied over the white pad.
  6. Small areas can be treated by hand using a white polishing pad or a soft cloth.
  7. Polish thoroughly.
  8. Do not apply the oil thickly.
  9. Ensure an even distribution of the oil in order to avoid differences in the overall shine once the floor has dried.
  10. Allow the floor to dry for approx. 24 hours, taking extra care during this period to prevent any contact with moisture.

Note: this is best done by a flooring installer or experienced technician

Purchase Admonter Maintenance Oil here. // Purchase suitable floor soaps here. 

NORMAL CARE (10 days after oil applied and thereafter):

  1. Vacuum/sweep floor
  2. If dirty/sticky/dull, wash with damp mop and Floor Soap for oiled floors (we recommend & supply Ciranova or Admonter). Use approx. 1 cap per litre of warm water for Admonter or Ciranova floor soaps.

Purchase suitable floor soaps here. 

TREATING STAINS

 

  1. Vacuum/sweep floor
  2. Wash floor with damp mop and Floor Soap solution, allow to dry
  3. If stain persists: Dilute a small amount of Floor Soap with water 1:1, use a cloth to wipe the stained area with this solution in the direction of the wood grain. Allow to dry.
  4. If stain persists: Use a microfiber cloth to spot-apply straight Floor Soap in the direction of the grain. Wipe away excess.
  5. If stain persists: Use a green Scotch pad to gently rub Floor Soap into the stained area in the direction of the grain. Wipe away excess.

Please note: Frequent staining may indicate the need for an application of Maintenance Oil (this should be applied annually for oiled floors and bi-annually for UV oiled floors).

Regular oiling of your floor will protect and feed the wood while enhancing its natural patina. Oiled floors acquire character over time and, with the correct care and maintenance, never require refinishing. Vienna Woods provide a floor oiling service – please call or email us to book a time.
SCRATCH TREATMENT

 

  1. Buff a small amount of maintenance oil into the scratch using a cloth. Wipe away excess and allow to dry
  2. To repair especially deep scratches, contact Vienna Woods on 09 523 1839.
UV OIL FINISH – QUICK GUIDE

  • No need to oil after installation
  • Oil every 18-24 months to feed the wood and maintain protection against staining
  • Top up oil in high-traffic or dry areas as needed
  • Spot treat scratches with oil
  • Never use solvents, chemicals, steam mops or excessive water (damp mop only)
  • Use a floor ‘soap’ for oiled floors only
  • Do not rub the floor hard – the oil finish may be removed

All other cleaning care etc. is the same as for hardwax oiled floors, with the exception of oiling regularity.

 

Purchase Maintenance Oil here // Purchase suitable floor soaps here. 

ALL OILED FLOORING DOS AND DON’TS

Oil is a traditional finish for wood flooring and is widely accepted to be the most attractive finish. Natural oil gives the wood a soft, natural sheen that mellows and improves with age and wear. Although the wood is no longer growing, it is a natural material which responds to light, humidity, temperature and wear.

DO

  • Expect some movement in your floor. It will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
  • Expect the colour of your floor to change slightly. This is a normal response to UV light. Move rugs if necessary, to allow the colour to even or refrain from putting down for 6-12 months until colour has settled.
  • Remove dirt and grit by vacuuming and sweeping regularly. This reduces micro-scratches.
  • Clean up spills immediately with a water-dampened cloth or mop. Water or oils may stain the floor.
  • Keep a bottle of floor soap solution pre-mixed somewhere handy for cleaning up spills.
  • Wash your floor by mopping with the specified cleaner to maintain the oil finish.
  • Replenish the protective oil coating regularly – we recommend an annual application of Maintenance Oil.
  • Use a door mat at exterior doors.
  • Ensure that mats and rugs have natural material backings (synthetics and rubber may discolour oil finishes).
  • Put felt pads/glides under furniture legs and change these regularly to prevent scratches. We recommend www.flexifelt.co.nz – use the code VIENNA5 for 5% discount. These stick very well and are superior to standard felts.
  • Contact us on 09 523 1839 or support@viennawoods.co.nz if you have any questions or concerns.

DON’T

  • Steam clean/ steam mop your floor. This will damage both the wood and the finish.
  • Use dusting sprays or other household cleaners on your floor.
  • Expose the floor to excessive water/moisture. No wet mopping, only damp.
  • Put pot plants directly on the floor. A trivet/stand will allow much better air circulation.
  • Scrub the floor aggressively. This may remove the finish.
  • Do not attempt to sand off the finish without contacting us first.
  • Wear stiletto heels on the wooden floor. These may crack, dent or scratch the finish.
  • Drag heavy furniture over the floor

 For specialised wood flooring care products, we recommend firstfloorcleaning.co.nz

 

Matt Lacquer Floors Care Guide

QUICK GUIDE

  • No annual maintenance required
  • Scratches will build over time, eventually requiring the floor surface to be refinished
  • Vacuum or sweep the floor regularly.
  • Mop the floors regularly – weekly or fortnightly.
  • Use floor cleaner for lacquer or polyurethane floors only, such as FirstFloor Soap, Ciranova Hard Floor Fresh or Bona.
  • Never use solvents, chemicals, steam mops or excessive water (damp mop only)
  • Do not rub the floor hard – the finish may be removed

HOW TO CLEAN THE FLOOR

  1. Vacuum/sweep floor.
  2. Wash floor using a damp mop and floor cleaner (10ml per 1 litre of warm water) – or a spray mop.

DOS AND DON’TS

The durability and wear resistance of any wooden floor is highly dependent on regular and correct care and maintenance which, if carried out correctly, will add years of life to your floor!

DO

  • Expect some movement in your floor. It will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
  • Expect the colour of your floor to change slightly. This is a normal response to UV light. Move rugs if necessary, to allow the colour to even or refrain from putting down for 6-12 months until colour has settled.
  • Remove dirt and grit by vacuuming and sweeping regularly. This reduces micro-scratches.
  • Clean up spills immediately with a water-dampened cloth or mop. Some substances may discolour your floor.
  • Use the correct floor cleaner – we recommend and supply FirstFloor, Ciranova and Bona products.
  • Use a door mat at exterior doors.
  • Put felt pads/glides under furniture legs and change these regularly to prevent scratches.
  • Contact us on 09 523 1839 or support@viennawoods.co.nz if you have any questions or concerns.

DON’T

  • Steam clean/ steam mop your floor. This will damage both the wood and the finish.
  • Use household cleaners, detergent or methylated spirits cleaners on your floor.
  • Expose the floor to excessive water/moisture. No wet mopping, only damp. Moisture can compromise the polyurethane near knots, causing the filler in knots to come out. Board edges may discolour.
  • Put pot plants directly on the floor. A trivet/stand will allow much better air circulation.
  • Wear stiletto heels on the wooden floor. These may crack, dent or scratch the finish.
  • Drag heavy furniture over the floor

TREATING SCRATCHES

Ciranova Unicare X-Matt may be used to add a protective film to your lacquered floor and to minimise micro-scratches. It can be buffed to a shine if desired. Needs removing and reapplying every 6-12 months. Deeper scratches may be treated with a furniture wax stick in a similar colour.