Timber flooring compliance documentation in New Zealand
What specifiers and builders need, and what we provide
Compliance documentation is the paperwork that shows a timber floor is fit for its use: product information, durability and moisture guidance, and emissions or environmental declarations. In New Zealand your Building Consent Authority decides compliance against the Building Code. Vienna Woods provides the documentation for the floor you specify.
For a timber floor, “compliance documentation” is a short stack of documents that let a designer, builder or Building Consent Authority assess the product. It usually falls into four groups.
Product information
What it is and how to lay it
The construction, dimensions, finish and installation method for the specific floor. As the New Zealand importer, we hold this for every range we supply.
Durability
Building Code clause B2 context
B2 asks that building elements stay serviceable for a set period. A floor finish is usually treated as readily accessible and replaceable, which sits in the shorter durability band.
Moisture
Building Code clause E3 context
E3 covers internal moisture. For timber the practical issue is subfloor and slab moisture, so we provide installation and moisture guidance for your conditions.
Emissions & environment
Formaldehyde and forestry
Emissions or formaldehyde declarations, plus environmental certification such as PEFC or FSC on the ranges that carry it. Ask us what applies to your specified floor.
Get it right
Who decides compliance, and how we help
An important point for specifiers: compliance with the New Zealand Building Code is determined by your Building Consent Authority on the consent, not by a supplier. No supplier can guarantee a floor “complies” in the abstract. What we can do is give you accurate product information and the relevant declarations so that assessment is straightforward.
Our core ranges are engineered European oak, engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification. Some of our European-made ranges carry their own certification: our Austrian Admonter range, for example, holds a CE Declaration of Conformity and PEFC documentation. Tell us the floor you are specifying and we will provide the documents that apply to it.
For architects & builders
Documentation support to get specified
Product information pack
Construction, dimensions, finish, grade and installation method for the exact floor on your drawings.
Declarations on request
The emissions, formaldehyde and environmental declarations that apply to your specified range, which we can send you where we hold them.
Moisture and install guidance
Subfloor, slab and acclimatisation guidance so the floor goes down to the right conditions for a New Zealand build.
Samples for the specification
Free samples so grade, tone and finish are signed off before the order goes in.
Keep reading
Useful next steps
Order free samples
See the grade, tone and finish in your own light before you specify.
What compliance documentation should I ask for when specifying a timber floor?
Product information for the specific floor, installation and moisture guidance, and any emissions or environmental declarations that apply. Tell us the floor you are specifying and we will provide the relevant documents.
Does Vienna Woods flooring comply with the New Zealand Building Code?
Compliance is determined by your Building Consent Authority against the Building Code, not by a supplier. We provide the product information and declarations that support that assessment, including durability context under clause B2 and moisture guidance relevant to clause E3.
Is your timber flooring FSC-certified?
Several of our European-made ranges carry environmental certification such as PEFC or FSC. Ask us which certification applies to the range you are specifying and we will send the documentation we hold for it.
Where does your timber flooring come from?
Our core ranges are engineered European oak, engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification, and several ranges are made in Europe. We can confirm the origin and documentation for any floor you specify.
Specifying a Vienna Woods floor?
Tell us the project and the floor, and we will send the product information and declarations you need, along with free samples.
The history and evolution of engineered timber flooring
How a 20th-century engineering idea became the premium NZ floor.
Engineered timber flooring began with a simple idea from the early 1900s: layer thin sheets of wood in alternating directions so the board stays flat. From 1930s plywood to today’s precision-milled European oak, a century of refinement has made it the go-to premium floor for New Zealand homes.
The engineered board under a modern floor is the result of about a hundred years of steady improvement. Here is how it evolved.
The engineering idea (early 1900s)
Cross-laminating thin layers of wood for strength was proven in shipbuilding and early aircraft long before it reached flooring. Gluing plies with the grain running in alternating directions makes a panel that behaves very differently from a single piece of timber.
Plywood floors (1930s)
The first engineered wood floors were plywood-based: thin timber plies bonded in a cross-laminate stack. The cross-grain construction held its shape where solid boards tended to move, and the idea stuck.
Parquet and pattern (1950s to 1960s)
Parquet blocks laid in herringbone and geometric patterns took off. Much of it used an engineered backing because it sat flatter and fitted more easily than solid timber.
The manufacturing leap (1980s to 1990s)
Better adhesives, pressing and milling produced cleaner, more consistent boards, plus floating floors that clicked together over an underlay. Engineered wood moved from niche to mainstream.
Engineered oak today
A modern board is a thick real-oak wear layer bonded under pressure to a multi-ply core, milled to tight tolerances and finished in the factory. You get the look and feel of solid oak on a base engineered to hold its shape.
Why it won
Why engineered became the premium choice for NZ
Engineered flooring did not take over because it is cheaper. It took over because of how it is built. The layered core is designed to cope with the seasonal humidity swings that New Zealand homes see, and it opens up floors that solid timber struggles with, like concrete slabs and underfloor heating. Our engineered vs solid guide compares the two in detail.
Engineered board
A cross-layered core
The multi-ply core runs its layers in alternating directions.
The construction is designed to resist the swelling and shrinking that can affect a single piece of solid timber, which generally helps in a damp, changeable climate.
Real timber wear layer on top, so you walk on genuine oak.
Often suitable over concrete slabs and, in many cases, underfloor heating, subject to the installer’s requirements.
Solid timber
One piece, top to bottom
A single piece of timber milled into a board.
Beautiful, and can be sanded back many times over a long life.
Tends to move more with moisture, so it needs careful acclimatisation and site conditions.
Generally not recommended straight onto a slab or over underfloor heating.
The modern spec
Where Vienna Woods sits in that story
Vienna Woods engineers its own engineered timber flooring in European oak, to a premium modern spec. Our Petit Château range is a good example: a 15mm board with a generous 4mm European oak wear layer over a multi-ply core, protected by a German UV lacquer. The oak is European; the board is engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification. A 4mm wear layer leaves plenty of real oak to live on, and to refinish if a floor ever needs it.
Spec
Petit Château
Board thickness
15mm
Wear layer
4mm European oak
Core
Multi-ply engineered
Finish
German UV lacquer
Standard plank
190 x 1900mm, Feature grade, in stock
Formats
Standard, Noble, Grande, Chevron, Herringbone
European oak, engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification. As a natural timber product, some variation between boards is normal.
Good to know
Common questions
What is engineered timber flooring?
A floorboard built in layers: a real timber wear layer bonded to a multi-ply or plywood core, with the layers running in alternating directions. You walk on genuine wood, and the layered base is engineered to keep the board flat.
How old is engineered timber flooring?
The core idea goes back to the early 1900s, borrowed from the cross-laminated plywood used in ships and aircraft. Plywood-based floors appeared in the 1930s, and the precision-milled oak boards sold today are the result of decades of refinement.
Is engineered timber flooring better than solid timber?
Neither is simply better. Solid can be sanded more times over a very long life; an engineered board’s cross-layered core is designed to move less with moisture, which suits many New Zealand homes, slabs and underfloor heating. Our engineered vs solid guide walks through the trade-offs.
What is Vienna Woods engineered flooring made from?
European oak wear layers over a multi-ply core. The oak is European; the boards are engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification, then finished with a German UV lacquer on the Petit Château range.
Keep exploring
Take the next step
Order free samples
Feel the oak, the wear layer and the finish in your own light before you decide.
The environmental benefits of engineered timber flooring
The resource case for a thin oak wear layer over an engineered core.
Engineered timber flooring puts a thin layer of real European oak over a multi-ply core. That construction uses less slow-grown hardwood per square metre than a solid board of the same size, and a good floor can be sanded and refinished rather than ripped up, so it stays down longer. Here is the detail.
A solid timber board is one piece of hardwood all the way through. An engineered board is built in layers: a wear layer of real European oak bonded to an engineered multi-ply core. Because the oak wear layer is only a few millimetres thick, an engineered plank uses less slow-grown oak per square metre than a solid board of the same size.
The core beneath it is a multi-ply engineered layer rather than solid slow-grown hardwood, so more of the plank is made from faster-growing, more plentiful timber. You still get a real oak surface underfoot. See how the format works on our engineered timber flooring page.
Four ways it adds up
The engineered case, point by point
Less hardwood per plank
The oak wear layer is a few millimetres thick, not the whole board. A solid board of the same size uses more slow-grown oak.
A faster-growing core
Under the oak sits a multi-ply engineered core, made from more plentiful, faster-renewing timber rather than solid hardwood.
Sand it, do not scrap it
A wear layer of this thickness can generally be sanded and refinished rather than replaced, so a well-kept floor can stay down for years before it needs redoing.
A renewable material
Timber is grown, not manufactured from scratch, and a timber floor can often be repurposed at the end of its life rather than sent to landfill.
Engineered vs solid
Why the layered board matters
The trade-off is simple. A solid board is all oak, so it uses more of a slow-growing hardwood and moves more with heat and humidity. An engineered board keeps a real oak face but backs it with a stable engineered core, which is why it suits underfloor heating and modern slab builds. We set out the full comparison on our engineered vs solid timber flooring guide.
Looked after well, an engineered oak floor can be refreshed in place instead of replaced. Our floor care and maintenance guide covers keeping it that way.
Certification
Where we can show the paperwork
We do not put an eco label on everything. Where a range carries independent forestry certification, we say so and hold the documentation. Our Distilled range is European oak, made in Europe, and our FSC line (ask us for the current certificate code). Our Admonter range, made in Austria, carries PEFC certification and a CE Declaration of Conformity.
Our other European oak ranges, including Petit Château, Icons and Château, are engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification. Ask us for the certification held on any specific range across the collections.
Good to know
Common questions
Is engineered timber flooring better for the environment than solid timber?
In resource terms, engineered construction uses less slow-grown oak per square metre, because the oak is a thin wear layer over an engineered core rather than a solid board. Solid timber has its own merits, so the honest answer is that engineered makes more efficient use of the hardwood.
Can engineered flooring be sanded and refinished?
Generally yes. A wear layer of a few millimetres can usually be sanded back and refinished at least once or twice, depending on wear and your installer’s assessment, so the floor can be refreshed rather than replaced.
Is Vienna Woods engineered flooring FSC-certified?
Some ranges are. Our Distilled range is European oak, made in Europe, and our FSC line (ask us for the current certificate code), and Admonter carries PEFC. Our overseas-engineered oak ranges are made to our specification, and we can share the certification held on any range you are considering.
What is the wear layer made of?
Real European oak. It is the same timber you would get on a solid board, just used as a surface layer bonded to a stable engineered core, which is what makes the resource saving possible.
See and feel the oak
Order free samples and check the grain, tone and finish in your own light before you commit.
Gaps between floorboards: why they happen and what’s normal
Real timber moves with the seasons. Here is what to expect and when to act.
Small seasonal gaps between floorboards are normal in real timber. Wood takes on and gives off moisture as indoor humidity changes through the year, so boards can shrink a little in a dry winter and close up again when it is more humid. Engineered oak and a correct, acclimatised install help keep that movement small.
Timber is a natural material that behaves a bit like a sponge. It takes on moisture and expands when the air is humid, and gives it off and contracts when the air is dry. Across an Auckland year that swing can be enough to open and close fine gaps between boards, most noticeably in winter when heating dries the air inside.
How much movement you see comes down to four things: the season and your indoor humidity, how well the floor was acclimatised before laying, the subfloor and its moisture level, and the install method. Get those right and the movement stays small, subject to acclimatisation and site conditions.
Normal or a problem
Which gaps to expect, and which to check
Usually normal
Fine seasonal gaps
These come with real timber and are not a fault:
Fine, even hairline gaps that open in a dry winter
Gaps that close up again in more humid months
A little variation from board to board
Movement that reads consistently across the whole floor
Worth a look
Gaps to check
These can point to a moisture issue in the subfloor, a floor laid without proper acclimatisation, or an install fault, and are worth a look:
Wide gaps that keep growing over time
Boards cupping or lifting at the edges
Gaps in only one part of the room
A spongy or hollow feel underfoot
Construction
How engineered oak and a correct install keep gaps small
Vienna Woods engineered oak flooring is built as a real European oak wear layer over a cross-bonded core, engineered overseas to our specification. That construction can move less with humidity than a solid timber board of the same width, which helps keep seasonal gaps small.
The board is only half of it. A dry, flat subfloor, proper on-site acclimatisation, and the right joint and installation method do the heavy lifting. Rush any of those and even the best board can move more than it should.
Keep movement small
Four things that reduce gaps
Acclimatise on site
Let the flooring sit in the room it will live in, in its packs, so it settles to the home’s normal conditions before laying. Time depends on the product and site.
Check the subfloor
A dry, flat subfloor matters. Excess moisture in a concrete slab or timber subfloor is a common cause of movement and gaps down the track.
Use the right join
Tongue-and-groove and click-lock behave differently. Your installer picks the method that suits the floor and how it is fixed down.
Keep humidity steady
Big swings in indoor humidity move any timber floor. Many timber manufacturers suggest keeping indoor humidity around 40 to 60 percent to limit movement.
Peace of mind
When to call your installer
A few hairline gaps in winter are normal and usually close up on their own as the air gets more humid. Do not panic if you spot them soon after installation, that is often the floor settling.
Call your installer if gaps keep widening, boards cup or lift, the movement is in one area only, or the floor feels hollow underfoot. Those can signal a subfloor moisture or install issue that is easier to sort early. Keeping the floor well looked after helps too, our guide to caring for your timber floor covers the day-to-day. Our team can walk you through it, or point you back to the installer who laid your floor.
Good to know
Common questions
Are gaps between floorboards normal?
Small, even gaps that open in a dry winter and close in more humid months are normal in real timber, because wood expands and contracts as indoor humidity changes. Wide gaps that keep growing, or boards that cup or lift, can point to a moisture or install issue and are worth checking.
Why do gaps get worse in winter?
Indoor air is usually driest in winter, especially with heating running. Timber gives off moisture and contracts as the air dries, so fine gaps can open up. They often close again as humidity rises through the warmer months.
Does engineered flooring stop gaps?
Engineered oak is built as a hardwood wear layer over a cross-bonded core, which can move less with humidity than a solid board and helps keep seasonal gaps small. It reduces movement rather than removing it, and a correct, acclimatised install still matters.
Can you fill gaps between floorboards?
Larger gaps can be eased with a colour-matched filler, and gaps that appeared right after installation may close on their own as the floor settles. It is best to have your installer assess wide or growing gaps first, in case there is an underlying moisture or subfloor cause.
How do I stop new gaps forming?
Acclimatise the flooring on site before laying, lay over a dry, flat subfloor, use the right install method, and keep indoor humidity reasonably steady. Many timber manufacturers suggest around 40 to 60 percent humidity to limit movement.
Keep reading
Helpful next steps
Installation guide
How a timber floor is acclimatised, prepared and laid so it sits tight and moves as little as possible.
Engineered timber can go over underfloor heating, with conditions. Engineered European oak suits it best, because its cross-layered core holds the board steady through the daily heating cycle where solid timber tends to move. The floor is glued down, the surface temperature is kept in check, and the details are confirmed with your board manufacturer and installer.
Underfloor heating puts a floor through a temperature swing every day it runs, and that cycling is what moves timber. Solid boards expand and contract as a single piece, so over a heated slab they are prone to cupping and gapping within a season or two.
A typical Vienna Woods board, for example our Petit Chateau range, is 15mm with a 4mm European oak wear layer over a multi-ply core, engineered overseas to our specification. Each ply runs across the next, so the layers restrain each other and the board stays much closer to its milled shape as the heat comes and goes. That cross-layered construction is why engineered oak is generally the suitable choice over underfloor heating, and why solid timber usually is not.
What suits underfloor heating, and what usually does not
Suits UFH
Engineered European oak
Multi-ply construction can help keep board movement small through heating cycles, so engineered European oak is the usual specification for heated floors in NZ apartments, new builds and architectural work.
Glued down for even heat transfer and a floor that stays put.
Surface temperature kept within the maker’s limit.
The exact board confirmed as rated for underfloor heating.
Usually not
Solid and unstable boards
Solid hardwood, most softwoods such as pine, rimu and matai, and non-engineered reclaimed boards move as one piece and tend to open joints over a heated slab, so they are generally not recommended over underfloor heating.
Solid hardwood moves too much for most heated-floor installs.
Softwoods tend to open joints through a heating season.
Bamboo and laminate vary widely, so only if the maker rates them.
Get these right
The rules that matter over underfloor heating
Four things decide whether a timber floor lives happily over heating. Get them right and the floor is stable for the long run. Miss one and the failures show up in the second winter.
1. Keep the surface temperature in check
The board is held to a maximum floor surface temperature, commonly cited around 27C across the flooring industry, but the exact figure is set by your board manufacturer and heating system, so confirm it before you commission. It is measured at the floor surface by a sensor, not the room air on the thermostat, and the controller should enforce it.
2. Commission the heating gradually
Before the timber goes down, the screed must be cured and the heating brought up and back down in slow steps, then switched off so the slab can be moisture-tested, following your screed and heating manufacturer’s own sequence rather than a rule of thumb. It relieves stress in the screed and drives out the construction moisture that would otherwise migrate into the boards.
3. Prepare and test the subfloor
A concrete slab over ground needs a damp-proof membrane under NZ Building Code clause E3, and the slab is moisture-tested before the floor goes down. Parabond 440 is a flexible adhesive, not a standalone damp barrier, so where the slab still reads damp on a carbide (CM) moisture test a separate barrier primer, chosen by that reading, goes down first.
4. Glue it down
Glue-down is the recommended method: the board sits in direct contact with the slab for even heat transfer and cannot move independently through the cycling. A floating floor on foam underlay insulates against the heat you are paying for. See our timber flooring installation guide.
Two systems
Hydronic or electric under timber
Both work with engineered timber when they are specified correctly. They behave differently.
Factor
Hydronic (water)
Electric (mat)
Heat profile
Lower, smoother, easier on timber
Higher peak, faster swings
Best for
Whole-home new builds
Single rooms, retrofits, bathrooms
Response time
Slow, relies on thermal mass
Fast, direct radiant
Running cost (NZ)
Lower, especially with a heat pump
Higher per kWh, smaller zones help
With timber
Gentle, even heat
Fine with a floor sensor and enforced limit
For a whole main living area, hydronic’s slow, even, low-temperature heat is the easier match for timber. Electric suits single rooms and retrofits, as long as the floor sensor and temperature limit are set and enforced, not left as a setting the user can override.
Finish
Lacquered or oiled over underfloor heating
Both are fine over a heated floor. A lacquered, UV-cured surface is sealed and hard-wearing and does not move with the timber underneath. An oiled finish penetrates the wood and can be re-oiled in place in worn areas, and it likes a little more attention to indoor humidity when the heating is running.
Choose by how the floor will be used and cared for, not by the heating. The two finishes are compared in full on our floor finishes explained guide.
Before you commit
What to confirm with the manufacturer and installer
Underfloor heating is a specify-it-once decision, so pin these down before the order goes in.
Ask the board maker
Product and limits
That the exact board is rated for underfloor heating.
Its maximum floor surface temperature.
Any extra conditions for wide-plank or parquet formats.
Ask the installer
Slab and install
The commissioning sequence for your screed and heating.
The adhesive and any barrier primer for your slab’s moisture reading.
The wastage allowance for straight lay versus parquet.
Wide planks and herringbone or chevron parquet all work over underfloor heating in engineered oak, typically glued down, but confirm the maker’s conditions for the exact format and width. Costs by range are set out on our timber flooring cost NZ guide.
Good to know
Common questions
Can you lay a wooden floor over underfloor heating?
Yes, engineered timber can. Engineered European oak is the usual choice, because its cross-layered core keeps movement small through heating cycles. Solid timber is generally not recommended over a heated floor. Glue it down, keep the surface temperature within the maker’s limit, and confirm the exact board is rated for underfloor heating.
Can I install solid timber over underfloor heating?
Generally no. Solid boards move as one piece and tend to cup or gap over a heated slab, so for most projects engineered European oak is the sound specification. A few boards are rated by their maker for UFH under strict conditions, but they are the exception.
What is the maximum floor surface temperature for engineered oak over UFH?
A maximum floor surface temperature applies, commonly cited around 27C across the industry, but the exact figure is set by your board manufacturer and heating system, so confirm it before commissioning. It is measured at the floor surface by a sensor, not the room air on the thermostat, and the controller should enforce it.
Do I have to glue the timber down or can it float?
Glue-down is the recommended method over underfloor heating. A glued board sits in direct contact with the slab for even heat transfer and stays put through the cycling, and it is usually needed for wide planks. Floating floors on foam underlay insulate against the heat, so they are better avoided over UFH. Use a flexible polyurethane adhesive such as Parabond 440.
How long should I run the heating before installing the timber?
Run a full commissioning cycle first: cure the screed, bring the heating up and back down in slow steps, then switch it off and moisture-test the slab. Only then does the timber go down. Follow your screed and heating manufacturer’s own figures rather than a rule of thumb, because skipping this step is a common cause of cupping later.
Is hydronic or electric underfloor heating better for engineered timber?
Both work if specified correctly. Hydronic runs lower, smoother temperatures and suits whole-home new builds. Electric is simpler to retrofit and suits single rooms and bathrooms, provided the floor sensor and temperature limit are set and enforced.
Will my timber floor gap with seasonal heating cycles in NZ?
A correctly specified engineered oak floor, glued down with the surface temperature kept within the maker’s limit, is built to handle normal seasonal cycling in NZ conditions. Hairline gapping in winter usually points to overheating or very dry indoor air rather than the floor itself. This is general guidance, not a guarantee: outcomes depend on the product, the install and site conditions.
Keep reading
Related guides
Engineered timber flooring
Why the multi-ply core is the standard for NZ floors, heated or not.
How to tell a genuinely responsible floor from a good story.
Sustainable timber flooring comes down to things you can actually check: a floor that uses less slow-grown hardwood, one you refinish instead of replacing, and independent certification you can verify. Engineered oak handles the first two well. Here is how to judge any floor honestly, greenwash aside.
Most of the sustainability question in timber flooring is simply how much slow-grown hardwood a floor uses. A solid board is 15mm to 19mm of the same oak all the way down. An engineered board carries a wear layer of only a few millimetres of oak, bonded to a core of faster-growing ply.
That difference matters. From the same slow-grown oak, engineered construction can yield roughly four to five times as much floor as solid boards. The oak you see and walk on is real European oak; the ply underneath does the structural work with a far more renewable timber. You can read how the construction works in our engineered timber flooring guide.
Longevity
The greenest floor is the one you keep
A floor you refinish instead of replacing is the most under-rated sustainability feature there is. A quality engineered oak floor with a solid oak wear layer can usually be sanded and re-coated rather than pulled up, so it stays in service far longer than a floor that has to be swapped out.
Care extends that further. An oiled floor kept up with regular maintenance and cleaning can often be refreshed in place rather than fully sanded back. The longer a floor lasts, the less often anything has to be made, shipped and installed to replace it.
Certification
The part you can actually verify
Certification is the one sustainability claim you can check yourself. The credible marks are FSC and PEFC: an independently audited chain from a managed forest through to the company that sells you the floor. If any link in that chain lacks its own certificate, the claim breaks.
Certification is line-specific, not a blanket badge across every floor. Some of our genuinely European ranges are made to carry it: the Distilled Collection is our FSC line, so ask us for its current certificate code, and the Austrian-made Admonter range carries PEFC certification. Always ask for the certificate code, check it on the public FSC or PEFC database, and confirm the claim appears on your invoice for that exact product. A showroom poster is not a chain of custody.
Honest, not greenwashed
What we will not claim
Honest sustainability has edges. Our oak crosses the world by sea, and that footprint is real, even if it is small per square metre against a floor’s decades of service. Not every collection is certified, and we will not put the claim on a floor that does not carry it through the chain.
Finishes matter too. Our floors arrive factory-finished with cured lacquers or natural oils, but zero-impact flooring does not exist. If a flooring pitch sounds like it has no trade-offs at all, ask for the certificate codes.
Good to know
Common questions
Is engineered timber flooring more sustainable than solid timber?
On resource efficiency, generally yes. An engineered board uses a wear layer of only a few millimetres of oak over a faster-growing ply core, so the same slow-grown oak can produce roughly four to five times more floor than solid boards of the same species. It also tends to sit better over concrete slabs and underfloor heating in NZ conditions.
What does FSC or PEFC certification actually mean?
It means an unbroken, independently audited chain of certificate holders from a managed forest through to the seller: forest manager, mill, factory, importer. If any link lacks its own certificate, the claim breaks. Verify any supplier’s claim by checking their certificate code on the FSC or PEFC public database and confirming the claim appears on your invoice.
Is all Vienna Woods flooring certified?
No, and we say so. Certification is line-specific. Our Distilled Collection is our FSC line and the Austrian-made Admonter range carries PEFC certification; other collections are not sold with a certification claim they do not hold. Always ask for the current certificate code. Ask us for certificate codes and invoice claims on any line you are specifying.
Does a longer-lasting floor make it more sustainable?
It is one of the biggest factors. A floor that can be sanded and re-coated, or re-oiled in place, tends to stay in service far longer than one that has to be replaced, which avoids the material, freight and installation of a whole new floor. Care and the right finish make the difference.
Does timber flooring help a project’s carbon or Green Star goals?
Grown timber captures carbon while it grows and holds it in the boards for the life of the floor. For Green Star projects, timber with credible FSC or PEFC certification can contribute toward responsible-products credits, and uncertified timber does not qualify, so always ask for the certificate code.
Order free samples
See and feel the oak in your own light before you commit. Free samples of the ranges you are weighing up.
