Why Size Counts in Timber Flooring

Light natural oak flooring in long lengths running through an open kitchen, dining and lounge

Vienna Woods · Articles

Timber floor board length: why size matters

Length, width and thickness, and how each one changes the room.

Board length is the single biggest driver of how a floor reads. Longer boards mean fewer joins and a calmer, more premium look, especially in open-plan rooms. But size is three numbers, length, width and thickness, and each one changes the feel underfoot. Here is how they work together.

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The three numbers

Board size is length, width and thickness

When people talk about board size they usually mean length. It matters, but it is only part of the story. Width sets the scale of the room. Thickness, and in particular the oak wear layer on top, sets how the floor wears and what you can do with it later. Get all three right and a floor looks considered rather than busy.

Every board we sell is European oak. Petit Château, Château, Icons and Patina are engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification; Foundation and Distilled are made in Europe. Browse the full range on the collections page.

Length

Why longer boards read more premium

Every engineered floor is milled from a range of board lengths, and the share of short boards in the pack is where the look is won or lost. More short boards means more head joints, a more broken grain pattern, and a floor that feels cluttered in a big room. Fewer, longer boards give a continuous flow that suits open-plan living.

We aim to keep short-board content low across the engineered range, and our fixed-length collections carry none at all. Plenty of engineered flooring is sold with a quarter to a third of the pack in short boards.

More short boards

Busier, more broken

More head joints across the floor
Grain pattern breaks up
Feels cluttered in open-plan rooms

Longer boards

Calmer, more continuous

Fewer joins to catch the eye
Grain flows across the room
Suits large, open spaces

Long, wide natural oak planks running the length of an open lounge

Width and thickness

Wider boards settle a room; thickness sets the wear

Width is a design call, not a quality one. Narrow strip floors read traditional and busy; a wider board calms a large room and reads more premium. Our standard planks run about 190mm wide, and the wider formats reach 200mm to 240mm. The Petit Château range is a good place to see the standard and wide formats side by side.

Thickness is two numbers: the whole board and the oak wear layer on top. Our engineered boards are 14mm or 15mm overall with a 3mm to 4mm European oak wear layer, and a thicker wear layer generally leaves more room to recoat or sand the floor later, depending on the installation and how it is looked after.

The sizes we carry

Vienna Woods board formats

Format	Size (mm)	Notes
Standard plank	190 x 1900	Our everyday format, held in stock
Noble plank	190 x 2200	Longer board, made to order
Grande plank	220 x 2200	Extra-wide board, made to order
Foundation	200 x 2200	Fixed length, no short boards, made in Europe
Patina	240 x 2200	Our widest plank, engineered European oak
Herringbone / Chevron	120 x 600	Parquet blocks for classic patterns

Boards are 14mm to 15mm thick with a 3mm to 4mm European oak wear layer. Made-to-order formats: please allow roughly 3 to 4 months, an estimate that can vary.

Dark rich oak flooring in long lengths across an open lounge, dining and kitchen

Keep exploring

Where to go next

Browse the collections

Every Vienna Woods range in one place, from standard planks to extra-wide and fixed-length boards.

View collections →

Foundation: one length

A 200 x 2200mm European-made board, every plank the same length, no short boards.

See Foundation →

Order free samples

Lay real boards in your own light before you commit to a size or a colour.

Get samples →

Good to know

Common questions

What is the best board length for timber flooring?

There is no single best length. Longer boards give a calmer, more continuous look and suit open-plan rooms; shorter boards can work in smaller spaces. What matters most is how many short boards sit in the pack. Vienna Woods keeps short-board content low, and our fixed-length ranges carry none.

Are wider boards better than narrow ones?

It is a design call, not a quality one. Wider boards, 200mm to 240mm, read more premium and settle a large room; narrower boards feel more traditional. Order samples and lay them out in your own light before deciding.

How thick should engineered timber flooring be?

Our engineered boards are 14mm or 15mm overall with a 3mm to 4mm European oak wear layer. A thicker wear layer generally leaves more scope to refinish later, subject to the installation and upkeep.

What size boards does Vienna Woods offer?

Standard planks are 190 x 1900mm, with wider and longer formats up to 240 x 2200mm, plus 120 x 600mm herringbone and chevron blocks. Foundation is a fixed-length 200 x 2200mm board with no short lengths.

See the size difference in your own space

Order a set of free samples, or send us your plans and we will help you choose the right board size for the room.

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Timber Floor Maintenance Cost NZ — Oiled vs Lacquered Flooring Over Time

BARREL Oak oiled timber floor in a light natural finish, close up

Vienna Woods · Articles

What Does It Cost to Maintain a Timber Floor in NZ?

Oiled vs lacquered, over the life of the floor

Day to day, a timber floor costs almost nothing to keep: the right cleaner and a microfibre mop. The real cost is periodic. Oiled floors take a low-cost refresh every few years and can be spot-fixed; lacquered floors need a full sand and re-coat once the surface wears. Here is the indicative NZ picture.

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Everyday cost

Routine cleaning is close to free

The biggest saving is that timber asks for very little day to day. Sweep or vacuum, then a lightly damp microfibre mop with a pH-neutral timber cleaner. Skip steam mops, wet mopping and generic supermarket sprays, which strip finishes and cause most of the damage that leads to early refinishing. Budget roughly $30 to $60 a year in the right product. Our timber floor maintenance and cleaning guide covers the routine.

Periodic cost

Where the two finishes differ: re-oil vs re-coat

This is where lifetime cost is really decided. The finish on the floor sets how you restore it, and how much that costs. For the full performance and appearance picture, read our oiled vs lacquered timber flooring comparison.

Oiled floors

Refresh, generally without sanding

Oil sits in the timber rather than as a film on top, so upkeep is a top-up, not a strip-back.

Topped up with a maintenance oil, not a surface film
Wear and dry patches can generally be spot-treated
Often done room by room, with less disruption
Lower cost per event, done more often

Lacquered floors

One bigger cost, later

Lacquer is a surface coating that wears as a single layer across the whole floor.

A protective film that wears as one layer
Once it wears through, a scuff cannot be spot-blended
Restoration generally means a full sand and re-coat
Minimal early cost, one larger cost down the track

The numbers

Indicative NZ maintenance costs

Every floor and every quote is different, so treat these as general market ranges, not Vienna Woods prices. Actual cost varies by floor area, foot traffic, finish, region and contractor. Always get a written quote for your own floor.

Task	How often (indicative)	Indicative NZ cost
Routine cleaning (both finishes)	Weekly, plus as needed	Around $30 to $60 a year in product
Re-oil refresh (oiled floors)	Periodic; high-traffic areas sooner	DIY from the cost of the oil; professional roughly $15 to $30 per m²
Full sand and refinish (worn lacquer, or a full oiled reset)	Once every many years	Roughly $45 to $90 per m², depending on spec and coats

Indicative market ranges only. GST, floor condition and site access all move the figure. Get a quote for a firm price.

Graph comparing the maintenance lifecycle cost of oiled timber floors versus sanding and refinishing lacquered floors over time

Full refinish

What a full sand and refinish costs

When a lacquered floor wears through, or an oiled floor needs a complete reset, the job is a full sand and refinish: sand back, then two or three coats of finish. As a guide only, NZ contractors often work to roughly $45 to $90 per square metre, so a typical living area tends to land in the low to mid thousands, more for larger floors, premium finishes or staining. It is disruptive too, furniture out and a few days off the floor, which is exactly why the finish you pick at purchase matters. Weigh it against the cost of the floor itself when you buy.

Lifetime cost

Which works out cheaper over time?

There is no single winner. Oiled floors spread cost into smaller, more frequent refreshes you can stage and often do yourself. Lacquered floors cost almost nothing for years, then land one larger refinishing bill. Over a long life, the totals often end up closer than they first look.

Two things cut lifetime cost more than the oiled-versus-lacquered debate itself: a sound install and matching the finish to how you live. A floor that is acclimatised, laid flat and sealed at the edges tends to wear more evenly and refinish cleanly. And putting your easiest-to-refresh finish where wear is heaviest, an oil in the hallway and where kids or pets live, means fewer full sands over the years. Order free timber flooring samples to see the finishes in your own light, or request a quote and we will talk through the finish that keeps your upkeep low.

Oiled vs lacquered

Performance, appearance and upkeep, side by side, so you can pick the finish that suits your home.

Compare the two finishes →

Care and cleaning

The simple routine that keeps a timber floor looking new and delays any refinishing.

See the maintenance guide →

What a floor costs to buy

Indicative supply and install pricing for engineered European oak flooring in NZ.

View flooring cost guide →

Good to know

Common questions

How much does it cost to sand and refinish a timber floor in NZ?

As an indicative market guide, sanding and refinishing often runs around $45 to $90 per square metre, depending on the floor, the finish and the number of coats. That is a general range, not a Vienna Woods price, so get a written quote for your own floor.

Is it cheaper to have an oiled or a lacquered floor?

It depends on how you use the floor. Oiled floors cost less per refresh but need refreshing more often; lacquered floors cost little for years, then need a full sand and re-coat. Over a long life the totals often end up closer than expected.

Can you re-oil a floor without sanding it?

In most cases, yes. Oiled floors are generally topped up with a maintenance oil and can be spot-treated in worn areas, so a full sand is usually only needed for a complete restoration.

Does routine cleaning really cost almost nothing?

Yes. Ongoing upkeep is mostly a pH-neutral timber cleaner and a microfibre mop, roughly $30 to $60 a year. Avoiding steam, excess water and harsh sprays is what prevents the far larger cost of early refinishing.

Still weighing it up? Read the full Vienna Woods FAQ, or order samples to compare finishes in person.

Choose the finish that keeps upkeep low

See how our engineered European oak looks and feels in your own light, then let us help you match the finish to how you live.

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Wooden Floorboards in the Kitchen; What is E3 and How Does it Impact Your Project?

Engineered European oak floorboards running through a kitchen by Vienna Woods

Vienna Woods · Articles

What is E3? Timber floors, kitchens and the Building Code

The internal-moisture clause, explained, and how to still lay timber in your kitchen.

E3 is the New Zealand Building Code clause for internal moisture. Since a 2021 update, kitchens count as wet areas, so floors near sinks, dishwashers and washing machines must be impervious and easy to clean. You can still lay a timber floor there, usually through an Alternative Solution signed off by your building consent authority.

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The clause

What Clause E3 actually covers

Clause E3 of the Building Code is titled Internal Moisture. Its job is to control the moisture that builds up inside a home, the kind that leads to mould, rot and damage to the building. In plain terms, it asks that surfaces in wet areas be impervious and easy to keep clean, so water from splashes and spills does not soak into the structure.

The full clause sits on the government’s Building Performance website. What changed for flooring is which rooms now count as wet areas, and that is where kitchens come in. Getting the floor right from the start is a job for your installer: our guide to timber flooring installation walks through subfloor prep and moisture control.

The 2021 change

Why your kitchen counts as a wet area

In November 2020, Amendment 7 to the Acceptable Solution E3/AS1 was introduced, with a transition period that ended on 3 November 2021. It reclassified dishwashers and washing machines as sanitary appliances, and sinks as sanitary fixtures. The result: a kitchen, and a laundry, is now treated as a wet area under the Building Code.

What the code asks

An impervious, cleanable floor

Floors in areas that hold a sanitary fixture or appliance need a surface that water cannot pass through and that wipes clean. In an open-plan room, that impervious zone extends a set distance out from the sink, dishwasher and washing machine.

Impervious surface
Easy to clean
Sealed against spills

What it means for timber

Timber goes in as an Alternative Solution

A standard timber floor is not an Acceptable Solution for that zone, so it is consented as an Alternative Solution: you demonstrate to your building consent authority that the floor meets the E3 performance requirement.

Consent via Alternative Solution
Confirm the exact zone with your BCA
Detail the wet points carefully

Kitchen island with a sink set over oak flooring, the point E3 treats as a wet area

The practical route

How to lay a timber floor in a kitchen under E3

Talk to your builder and BCA early

Raise the floor at design stage. Your builder and building consent authority confirm the impervious zone and what evidence they want to see for an Alternative Solution.

Specify a sealed, cleanable surface

The floor needs a well-sealed, cleanable surface coating so spills sit on top and wipe away rather than soaking in. Your supplier should provide the coating details.

Seal the joints and edges

Board joints, perimeter edges and the runs around cabinetry and appliances are detailed to keep moisture out. This is where a careful install earns its keep.

Put a maintenance plan in writing

A simple maintenance plan, wiping spills promptly, regular cleaning and periodic checks, supports the consent. Our maintenance and cleaning guide is a good start.

Engineered European oak flooring flowing through an open-plan kitchen and dining area in Westmere, Auckland

The Vienna Woods approach

Engineered European oak, built for the way we live

Most of a kitchen is not the splash zone, and a timber floor flowing through the kitchen, dining and living space is the look most of our clients are after. The trick is the right board and the right install for New Zealand conditions.

Our floors are engineered European oak: a real oak wear layer over a cross-bonded core, engineered to our specification. That construction is designed to stay more settled than a solid plank as kitchen humidity rises and falls through the day.

Sequencing matters too. Our note on whether the kitchen or the flooring goes first covers how the two trades line up, and the install method, glue-down or floating, plus subfloor moisture testing, is set by your installer in our installation guide.

Good to know

Common questions

Can you have wooden floors in a kitchen in New Zealand?

Yes. Kitchens now count as wet areas under Clause E3, so a timber floor usually goes in as an Alternative Solution, approved by your building consent authority, with a sealed, cleanable surface and the wet points detailed carefully.

What is Clause E3 of the Building Code?

E3, Internal Moisture, is the clause that controls moisture build-up inside a building. It requires surfaces in wet areas to be impervious and easy to clean so water does not damage the structure or create unhealthy conditions.

Are kitchens really classed as wet areas now?

Since a 2021 update to E3/AS1, sinks are sanitary fixtures and dishwashers and washing machines are sanitary appliances, which brings kitchens and laundries in as wet areas. Your BCA confirms how far the impervious zone extends.

Do I need a special consent for a timber kitchen floor?

You do not need a separate consent, but timber in the wet zone is handled as an Alternative Solution within your building consent. Your builder shows the BCA the floor meets the E3 requirement through the coating, sealing and a maintenance plan.

Is engineered oak a good choice near water?

Engineered oak’s cross-bonded core is designed to stay more stable than solid timber as humidity changes, which suits open-plan kitchens. Right at a sink or tub, still detail the wet points and confirm the impervious zone with your builder.

More answers on our flooring FAQ. E3 detail here is general guidance, always confirm your project with your builder and building consent authority.

Order free samples

See and feel our engineered European oak at home before you commit to a colour.

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Kitchen or flooring first?

The other question every kitchen renovation asks, and how the trades line up.

Read the guide →

Get a quote

Tell us the room and we will price your floor, supply, or supply and install.

Request a quote →

Planning a timber floor for your kitchen?

Talk to us about the right board and install for a wet-area kitchen, and order free samples to try at home.

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Understanding and Remedying Cupping in Timber Floors

Engineered European oak flooring in a New Zealand home

Vienna Woods · Articles

Cupping in Timber Floors: Causes, Diagnosis and Remedies

What it is, why it happens, and how to put it right without making it worse.

Cupping is when a floorboard’s edges sit higher than its centre, giving the board a shallow concave dish. It is almost always a moisture problem: the underside of the board is wetter than the top, so it swells and pushes the edges up. Fix the moisture source first, then let the floor re-balance.

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The basics

What cupping actually is

Cupping shows up as a gentle ripple across the floor. Run a straight edge or your hand across the boards and each one sits slightly lower in the middle than at its edges. It is the opposite of crowning, where the centre sits proud instead. Both solid and engineered timber can cup, because both react to moisture.

The mechanism is always the same. The underside of the board takes on more moisture than the top, the bottom swells, and the edges are pushed up. So the fix is never really about the surface. It is about finding the moisture and taking it away.

A cupped timber floor with the board edges sitting higher than the centres

What cupping looks like: the board edges sit higher than the centres.

Root cause: moisture

What causes cupping

Cupping is a symptom, not the disease. The disease is a moisture imbalance top to bottom, and it usually traces back to one of these four. Most come down to the subfloor and how the floor was laid, so the timber flooring installation guide is worth a read before you start.

Subfloor and slab moisture

A damp subfloor, or a concrete slab that has not fully dried, feeds moisture up into the underside of the boards. New slabs are a common culprit and can hold water for months.

Spills and standing water

Water left to sit, a slow leak under a dishwasher or fridge, or a floor that is wet-mopped soaks into the board edges and joints faster than it dries off the top.

No acclimatisation

Timber laid before it has settled to the room keeps adjusting after install. If it gains moisture once it is fixed down, the edges lift.

Humidity and HVAC swings

Big seasonal humidity changes, heat pumps and air-conditioning all shift the balance in the boards. Strong sun on one area and damp air in another can both play a part.

Before you fix anything

How to diagnose cupping

Confirm it really is cupping and, more importantly, find where the moisture is coming from. Guessing wastes time and can make things worse.

Check the floor

Confirm the shape

Lay a straight edge across several boards. Dished in the middle is cupping; raised in the middle is crowning.
Look for a pattern. Whole-room cupping points to humidity or the subfloor; a single patch points to a leak or spill.
Note when it appeared. Seasonal and mild, or sudden and getting worse?

Track the source

Find the moisture

Use a moisture meter on the boards and, if you can reach it, the subfloor. You are looking for a wetter underside or subfloor.
Check the usual suspects: plumbing, appliances, sub-floor ventilation and any recent concrete.
If it followed a flood or a big spill, work through the water damage recovery steps first.

The remedy

How to fix a cupped floor

There is no quick trick. You fix the moisture, then give the floor time to even out. In order:

1. Fix the moisture source

This is the real repair. Stop the leak, dry the subfloor, improve ventilation, or let a new slab finish curing. Nothing else works until this is done.

2. Let it re-equilibrate

Once the source is gone, the board’s top and bottom slowly even out, and mild cupping often flattens on its own over weeks to months. Keep the room’s humidity steady while it settles.

3. Sand only once it is stable

Sanding is a last step, not a first one. Sand a floor that is still moving and, once it dries flat, you can be left with thin, crowned boards. Have a flooring professional confirm the moisture is stable and the floor has settled first.

4. Replace when it is beyond that

If boards have split, delaminated or stayed badly deformed after drying, replacing the affected area is the honest answer. A quote from Vienna Woods will tell you where you stand.

Stop it happening

How to prevent cupping

Cupping is far easier to design out than to fix. Three habits do most of the work.

Test the moisture before you lay

Check the subfloor and slab are dry and stable before any timber goes down. This one step heads off the bulk of moisture-related cupping.

Acclimatise the timber

Let the flooring settle to the room it will live in before install, so it is not gaining or losing moisture after it is fixed down. Follow the product’s installation guidance.

Keep humidity and care steady

Avoid big indoor humidity swings, wipe spills quickly, and stick to gentle, damp-not-wet cleaning. Our flooring maintenance and cleaning guide covers the routine.

Good to know

A note on engineered floors

Engineered boards are built as a European oak wear layer over a stable multi-ply core, a construction designed to move less with changes in humidity than a single piece of solid timber. That is the design intent, not a guarantee: no timber floor is immune to a genuine moisture problem, so the moisture control above still applies to every floor. Vienna Woods flooring is European oak, engineered overseas to our specification.

Keep going

Helpful next steps

Order free samples

See and feel our European oak in your own light and humidity before you commit to a floor.

Order samples →

Engineered vs solid

How the two constructions differ, and why it matters when you are thinking about stability and moisture.

Compare the two →

Dealing with water damage

A flood or a burst pipe? The first moves that decide whether a floor can be saved.

Read the guide →

Good to know

Common questions about cupping

What causes cupping in a timber floor?

A moisture imbalance: the underside of the board is wetter than the top, so the bottom swells and pushes the edges up. Common sources are a damp or newly poured concrete subfloor, a leak or spill left to sit, high indoor humidity, or a floor laid before it acclimatised.

Will a cupped floor flatten out on its own?

Often, yes. Once you fix the moisture source and let the floor re-balance to the room’s humidity, mild cupping frequently evens out over weeks to months. The common mistake is sanding too soon, while the boards are still moving.

When can a cupped floor be sanded?

Only after the moisture problem is fixed and the floor has fully stabilised. Sanding a floor that is still cupped can leave the boards thin and, once they dry and flatten, crowned. Have a flooring professional confirm it is stable before any sanding.

Can engineered floors cup too?

Yes. Engineered construction is designed for more dimensional stability than solid timber, but no wood floor is immune to a genuine moisture problem, so the same moisture control still applies.

How do I stop my floor from cupping?

Control the moisture. Make sure the subfloor is dry before laying, let the timber acclimatise, keep indoor humidity reasonably steady, wipe up spills quickly, and keep up gentle regular cleaning.

More questions about living with a timber floor? Our flooring FAQ covers the common ones.

Understanding Tolerances for Timber Flooring in New Zealand

Close-up of engineered European oak flooring laid flat and tight

Vienna Woods · Articles

Floor level tolerance for timber flooring in New Zealand

The three tolerances that decide whether a floor stays flat, tight and quiet.

Three tolerances decide a good timber floor in New Zealand: how flat the subfloor is, how dry the subfloor and boards are, and how much room the floor gets to move. Get those right and the floor sits level, tight and quiet. Get them wrong and you see cupping, gaps and lifting.

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Start here

The tolerances that actually matter

Timber flooring is an overlay: it goes on top of your subfloor, so the subfloor sets the standard. New Zealand building guidance and the relevant standards cover construction in general, but the numbers that decide your floor come from the manufacturer’s installation spec. Three do the heavy lifting: subfloor flatness, moisture, and the expansion gap around the edges. Our timber flooring installation guide sets out how a quality install handles all three, so confirm the exact figures for your floor with your installer and to the manufacturer’s installation spec.

Tolerance 1

Subfloor flatness

Flat is the one you can see and feel. Our installation guide works to a subfloor flat to within 3mm under a 3m straightedge before any boards go down: highs get ground back, hollows get filled. Skip it and the floor telegraphs every bump, with hollow spots underfoot, boards that rock, and gaps that open at the ends. Standards and manufacturers state flatness differently (often a few millimetres over 2m or 3m), so confirm the target for your floor to the manufacturer’s installation spec.

Sazerac European oak flooring laid flat and level, catching soft natural light

Tolerance 2

Moisture

Moisture is the number-one cause of floor failure, so it is the tolerance you cannot eyeball. On a concrete slab the moisture is measured (an in-situ probe or carbide reading) and the primer or barrier system is chosen off that reading, not by eye. On a timber subfloor, the boards and the subfloor should read within about 4% of each other before laying, and the timber is acclimatised flat, in its packs, in the actual room, for at least 48 hours. It is fair to ask to see the moisture and flatness readings taken for your job.

Quick reference

The tolerances at a glance

What	Typical target	Why it matters
Subfloor flatness	Within 3mm under a 3m straightedge	Stops rocking, hollow spots and end gaps
Concrete slab moisture	Measured before laying; barrier chosen off the reading	Moisture is the top cause of floor failure
Timber subfloor moisture	Boards within about 4% of the subfloor	Boards settle without cupping or shrinking
Acclimatisation	48 hours or more, flat, in the room	Timber reaches the room’s normal conditions first
Expansion gap	About 10mm in normal rooms, up to 14mm in humid spaces	Gives the floor room to move without lifting

Figures follow Vienna Woods’ installation guide. Standards and manufacturers vary, so confirm the exact targets for your floor to the manufacturer’s installation spec and with your builder.

What good looks like

Board level and gaps: what is normal

A quality floor reads as one flat plane, with board end-joints staggered by at least 300mm and boards mixed across packs for a natural spread of colour and grain. A little seasonal movement is normal and not a fault: engineered oak takes on and gives off moisture with the seasons, so fine hairline gaps can appear in a dry winter and close again in humid months. What you should not see is a persistent step between boards, boards that lift or rock, or gaps that stay open year-round. Those point back to flatness, moisture or fixing, not the timber.

When it goes wrong

What happens when tolerances are missed

Flatness missed

Hollow spots and end gaps

An out-of-flat subfloor leaves boards bridging the highs and hollows. You feel it as spring or rocking underfoot, hear it as a hollow tap, and see it as gaps opening at the board ends.

Moisture missed

Cupping, lifting and movement

Trapped or excess moisture drives the board edges up above the centre. See why timber floors cup and how it is remedied, and what to do if your timber floor gets wet.

Good to know

Common questions

What is the flatness tolerance for a timber floor subfloor in NZ?

Vienna Woods’ installation guide works to a subfloor flat to within 3mm under a 3m straightedge before laying. Standards and manufacturers state it differently, so confirm the target to the manufacturer’s installation spec.

What moisture level is acceptable before laying timber flooring?

On a concrete slab the moisture is measured and the barrier chosen off the reading. On a timber subfloor the boards should read within about 4% of the subfloor, and the timber is acclimatised in the room for 48 hours or more.

How much gap should a timber floor have around the edges?

An expansion gap of about 10mm in normal rooms, up to about 14mm in humid or high-swing spaces, hidden by the skirting or scotia, gives the floor room to move.

Are small gaps between boards normal?

Fine hairline gaps that open in a dry winter and close in humid months are normal seasonal movement. Persistent gaps, steps or lifting are not, and usually trace back to flatness, moisture or fixing.

Who is responsible for meeting the tolerances?

Your installer. A good installer tests and records subfloor flatness and moisture, acclimatises the timber, and designs in room to move. It is fair to ask to see the readings for your job. See our installation guide for the full method, or our timber flooring FAQ for more.

How a floor is laid

The full method, subfloor to finished edge, so you know what good looks like before you sign off.

Read the installation guide →

Feel the boards first

Order free samples and see engineered European oak in your own light before you commit.

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What it costs

See what a timber floor costs in New Zealand, from entry level to premium European oak.

See pricing →

Get it laid to spec, and talk to us first

The tolerances are the installer’s job, but the floor is our specialty. Order free samples, then get a quote for engineered European oak laid to spec.

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A Comprehensive Guide to Glue-Down Wood Floor Installation

Flooring adhesive being prepared for a glue-down timber floor installation

Vienna Woods · Articles

Glue-Down Timber Flooring: How to Install It, Step by Step

The bonded method, done right on a prepared subfloor.

Glue-down timber flooring means bonding each engineered oak board straight to the subfloor with a flooring adhesive, for a firm floor underfoot. It suits concrete slabs, wide boards and herringbone. Get it right by preparing a flat, dry subfloor, testing for moisture, and following the adhesive maker’s system.

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The method

When glue-down is the right choice

There are two common ways to lay engineered timber. A floating floor clicks together over an underlay with no adhesive. A glue-down floor bonds each board to the subfloor, so installers often reach for it on concrete slabs, over underfloor heating, for wide or long boards, and for patterns like herringbone flooring where every piece needs to sit still.

Bonded down, the floor tends to feel firm and solid underfoot with less hollow sound. How a finished floor performs depends on the subfloor, the adhesive system and the install, so treat that as indicative rather than a guarantee. Not sure which way to go? Read our floating vs glue-down comparison, or the full timber flooring installation guide that covers every method.

Step by step

Installing a glue-down timber floor

1. Prepare the subfloor

The subfloor must be flat, clean, dry and sound. Grind down high spots and fill low spots to the flatness tolerance in the adhesive and board instructions. Dust or debris stops the glue gripping.

2. Test for moisture

Moisture is the most common reason a glue-down floor fails. Test the subfloor before you lay anything, using the right method for the material. The adhesive is not a damp-proof layer, so if the reading is high, apply the correct primer or moisture system for that reading first, and follow the adhesive maker’s system.

3. Acclimatise the boards

Let the engineered timber sit in the room to settle to its temperature and humidity before laying. This reduces movement in the boards after installation.

4. Spread the adhesive

Use a flooring adhesive rated for engineered timber, such as Parabond 440, applied with the notched trowel the maker specifies. The trowel size sets how much glue transfers to the board. Only spread as much as you can cover before it skins over.

5. Lay the boards

Set each board into the wet adhesive, aligned and tight, and press it down for full contact. Leave an expansion gap around the perimeter and at fixed points so the floor can move with the seasons. For herringbone or chevron, work off your set-out lines.

6. Let it cure

Keep traffic and heavy furniture off the floor until the adhesive has cured to the maker’s stated time. Rushing this is how boards lift or shift.

Engineered European oak boards being laid over adhesive during a glue-down installation

Glue-down vs floating

Two ways to lay the same board

Glue-down

Bonded to the subfloor

Firm underfoot and well suited to concrete slabs, underfloor heating, wide boards and herringbone.

Needs a flat, dry, tested subfloor
Needs cure time before use
Best for patterns and slabs

Floating

Clicks together over underlay

Not stuck down, so it is faster to lay, lower mess, and easier to lift or replace later.

Quicker to install
Works over some existing subfloors
Good for straightforward layouts

Both use the same engineered European oak boards. For the full breakdown, see our floating vs glue-down comparison and the parent timber flooring installation guide.

Good to know

Glue-down timber flooring: common questions

Do you glue the joints of engineered wood flooring?

Usually no. Most engineered boards use a click or tongue-and-groove locking profile that holds the joints together on its own, so in a full glue-down you bond the board to the subfloor, not board to board. Some older tongue-and-groove profiles take a bead of adhesive in the joint only if the manufacturer calls for it. Always follow the board maker’s instructions.

Can you glue timber flooring straight onto concrete?

Yes, once the slab is flat, clean and dry. Test the concrete for moisture first. If it reads high, apply the correct primer or moisture system for that reading before you glue, and follow the adhesive maker’s system. The adhesive on its own is not a damp-proof layer.

Should I choose glue-down or a floating floor?

Glue-down suits slabs, underfloor heating, wide boards and patterns like herringbone, and tends to feel firm underfoot. Floating is faster to lay and easy to lift later. Our floating vs glue-down comparison walks through both so you can match the method to your subfloor.

What adhesive does Vienna Woods use for glue-down floors?

We carry Parabond 440, a flooring adhesive for engineered timber. It is not a standalone damp barrier, so on a concrete slab you test the moisture and apply the matching DL primer system for that reading first. The product page carries the technical data sheet.

How long before I can walk on a glued-down floor?

Keep off it until the adhesive has cured to the manufacturer’s stated time. Cure times vary by product and site conditions, so check the adhesive data sheet before moving furniture back in.

More questions about laying timber? See our frequently asked questions.

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