How to Know When It’s Time to Oil Your Timber Floor: A Guide to Maintaining Oiled Wood Floors

Oiled European oak floor in a light chalk oil, close up showing the natural matte sheen

Vienna Woods · Articles

When to Oil Your Timber Floor: The Signs It Is Time

The tell-tale signs, a simple test, and how often to re-oil

An oiled timber floor is ready for a maintenance coat when it looks dull through the walkways, feels dry or rough underfoot, or water stops beading and starts soaking in. High-traffic areas wear first. Below are the tell-tale signs, a simple water-drop test, and how often to re-oil by traffic.

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Read the floor

Six signs an oiled floor is ready for re-oiling

You do not need to strip an oiled floor back to bare timber to keep it looking good. Unlike a lacquer, oil is topped up in place, so the trick is catching the wear early while a light maintenance coat is all it takes. Watch for these six signs, and check the busiest paths first.

The lustre has gone flat

The soft, natural sheen of a freshly oiled floor dulls first in the walking paths. If the timber looks tired and grey next to the untrodden edges of the room, the surface oil is wearing thin.

It feels dry or rough underfoot

Run a bare hand across a busy area. A well-oiled floor feels smooth and slightly fed. If it feels dry, papery or like raw wood, it is asking for a coat.

Water soaks in instead of beading

Spills that once sat on top now darken the timber and soak in. That is the clearest sign the oil barrier has worn down. The water-drop test below confirms it in a minute.

Scratches and scuffs show more

Every floor picks up marks, but on a worn oiled surface they stand out and trap dirt. More visible scuffing than usual means the protective oil has thinned.

Colour looks faded or patchy

Sunlit stretches and daily traffic can lighten the tone over time. A maintenance coat, or a tinted oil applied by a professional, helps even it back up.

It is getting harder to keep clean

As the oil thins, dust and grime cling to the surface and mopping stops lifting them cleanly. Cleaning more often for less result points to a floor that needs feeding.

Natural oiled European oak floor with a matching timber wall feature in an open living space

The 60-second check

How to test whether it needs oil: the water-drop test

Not sure? Let the floor tell you. Drip a few drops of clean water onto the boards in a spot that gets plenty of use, then watch what happens.

Oil is still working

Water beads and sits

If the drops hold their shape and sit on the surface for a couple of minutes, the oil is still doing its job. Wipe them up. No coat needed yet.

Time to re-oil

Water soaks in and darkens

If the water spreads, soaks in and leaves a dark patch within a minute or two, the surface oil has worn thin. That area is ready for a maintenance coat.

Test a few spots: a doorway or hallway, the middle of the living room, and somewhere protected like under a rug. The busy areas almost always fail first, and that tells you exactly where to start.

How often

How often should you re-oil an oiled floor?

There is no single number, because it depends on how hard the floor works. Traffic, direct sun, pets and how you clean all move the timeline. The honest answer: re-oil when the signs above show up, not on a fixed calendar.

Most maintenance-oil makers suggest a refresh somewhere between one and three years, but that is a wide window. A busy kitchen or entry can need a touch-up sooner, while a spare bedroom may go far longer. Always follow the recommendation for your specific maintenance oil, and check the product spec that came with your floor.

Where it is	What tends to happen	Where to start
Entries, hallways, kitchens	Wear shows here first; grit and spills are constant	Run the water-drop test regularly and coat these first
Living and dining rooms	Walking paths and sunlit patches dull ahead of the edges	Watch the main routes and any sun-facing boards
Bedrooms and studies	Lightest use, longest between coats	A light refresh when the sheen finally drops

Once it is time

What to do next

Confirmed it is due? Good news: you rarely need to sand the whole floor. A maintenance coat over a clean, dry surface is usually all it takes, and it is a job many owners do themselves.

Our step-by-step Ciranova maintenance-oil DIY guide walks through prepping and applying the coat. If yours is an Admonter floor, follow the Admonter oiled-floor care routine for the maker’s method. For everything else on keeping timber floors right, start at our maintenance and cleaning hub.

Dark brown oiled herringbone timber floor in a kitchen, a high-traffic area that wears first

Make it last

Stretch the time between coats

A little routine care buys months between maintenance coats and keeps the floor looking fresh in the meantime.

Stop grit at the door

Most wear is grit walked in from outside. Mats at every entry, and a no-shoes habit in busy homes, do more than any product.

Clean dry, not wet

Skip the sopping mop. Standing water is an oiled floor’s enemy. Sweep or vacuum, then damp-mop with a cleaner made for oiled timber.

Wipe spills straight away

The longer a spill sits, the more it can soak in as the oil ages. Blot it up quickly, especially in kitchens and near sinks.

Pad the furniture

Felt pads under chairs and table legs stop the scratches that thin the oil in the first place.

Keep going

Handy next steps

Order free samples

See and feel our oiled European oak in your own light before you commit.

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The maintenance guide

Every care and cleaning article for timber floors, gathered in one place.

Open the hub →

Apply the oil yourself

The step-by-step DIY method for laying down a maintenance coat.

Read the guide →

Good to know

Common questions

How do I know when my oiled floor needs re-oiling?

Watch for a dull, flat look in the walking paths, a dry or rough feel underfoot, water soaking in instead of beading, and more visible scuffs. The water-drop test is the quickest confirmation: if water soaks in and darkens the timber within a minute or two, that area is ready for a coat.

How often should you oil a timber floor?

It depends on traffic, sunlight and how the floor is cleaned, so there is no fixed number. Maintenance-oil makers commonly suggest somewhere between one and three years, but a busy kitchen may need it sooner and a quiet bedroom far later. Re-oil when the signs appear, and follow your product’s recommendation.

What is the water-drop test?

Drip a few drops of clean water onto a well-used part of the floor. If it beads and sits, the oil is still protecting the timber. If it spreads, soaks in and leaves a dark mark, the surface oil has worn thin and it is time for a maintenance coat.

Can I re-oil just the worn areas?

Often, yes. Oil blends in place, so you can top up the busy paths and doorways without doing the whole room. For an even finish across an open space, many owners coat the full area. Our DIY oil guide covers both.

Do I need to sand before re-oiling?

Usually not. A maintenance coat goes over a clean, dry floor. Light sanding is only needed for deep scratches or a rough patch. Full sanding back to bare timber is a recoat or restoration job, not routine maintenance.

Where can I get help?

For product advice or a floor recommendation, request a quote or talk to our team. For care questions, our maintenance and cleaning hub has the full set of guides, and common queries are answered on our FAQ page.

Keep your oiled floor looking its best

New floor on the way, or planning one? Order free samples to see our oiled European oak in your own space, or talk to us about the right care.

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Maximising the Lifespan of Your Timber Floors: Cleaning Essentials

Sunlit living room with engineered European oak flooring in a Saint Heliers home

Vienna Woods · Articles

How to Clean Timber Floors (NZ Care Guide)

The simple routine to keep a timber floor looking its best.

Clean a timber floor by sweeping or vacuuming off grit first, then wiping it over with a well-wrung damp mop and a pH-neutral timber cleaner. Skip steam mops, wax polishes and harsh detergents, which can damage the finish. Do that weekly, wipe spills straight away, and use felt pads and door mats to protect the surface.

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The short answer

Clean little and often, and keep water off it

Timber is a natural material that moves a little with heat and humidity, so the two things that shorten a floor’s good looks are grit and standing water. Grit gets walked in and grinds the finish like sandpaper. Water sits in the joints and can lift or swell the boards. Sweep or vacuum the grit, damp mop rather than wet mop, and mop up spills as they happen. That is most of the job.

This works the same on our engineered European oak floors and on solid timber. The care routine below is finish-agnostic, with a short note on oiled versus lacquered floors where the two differ. For anything deeper, the timber floor maintenance and cleaning hub is the place to go.

The routine

The weekly clean, step by step

1. Dry first, always

Sweep with a soft broom or vacuum on the hard-floor setting (beater bar off) to lift grit and dust. Do this before any wet cleaning so you are not dragging grit across the finish. Daily in busy entry areas, once or twice a week elsewhere.

2. Damp mop, not wet mop

Use a flat microfibre mop wrung out until it feels barely damp, with a pH-neutral timber floor cleaner. The floor should be dry within a minute or two. If you can see water sitting on it, the mop is too wet.

3. Wipe spills straight away

Blot up water, wine, food and pet accidents as soon as they land, with a soft dry or barely-damp cloth. Standing liquid is the fastest way to mark a timber floor, so speed matters more than product.

4. Protect the surface

Felt pads under chair and table legs, a mat at every external door, and a rug in the highest-traffic runs. Lift furniture to move it rather than dragging it. Keep pet claws trimmed. Most scratches are grit and drag, so this is where you win.

Damp mopping an engineered oak timber floor with a flat microfibre mop

What to keep off it

The things that damage a timber finish

Steam mops and polishes can damage the finish, so leave both off a timber floor. Steam forces heat and moisture straight into the boards and joints. Wax and silicone polishes build up, trap dirt and can leave a floor slippery and hard to recoat later.

Also avoid: soaking the floor, string mops and buckets of sudsy water, ammonia or bleach-based sprays, abrasive pads or powders, and generic supermarket “floor shine” products. When in doubt, plain water on a barely-damp microfibre mop is safer than the wrong cleaner. Check any new product on a hidden corner first, and follow the maker’s label.

Know your finish

Oiled or lacquered? The care differs a little

Day to day, both are cleaned the same way: dry first, then a barely-damp mop. The difference shows up in the deeper upkeep. If you are not sure which you have, our guide to timber floor finishes walks through how to tell.

Oiled

Feed it, spot-repair it

Clean with a pH-neutral cleaner made for oiled floors.
Topped up with a maintenance oil in place, no sanding back.
Scuffs and small marks can often be spot-repaired in the affected area.
A natural, matt look that hides wear well.

Lacquered

Protect the top coat

Clean with a pH-neutral cleaner for lacquered or hard-finish floors.
Never wax or polish it, that stops a future recoat bonding.
When the finish eventually dulls, a professional screens and recoats it.
A consistent sheen, easy to wipe clean.

Every few years

Re-oil or re-coat: the basics

Good day-to-day care can help an engineered oak floor keep its look for a long time, though how long depends on traffic, finish and upkeep rather than any fixed figure. At some point the surface will want refreshing, and what you do depends on the finish.

An oiled floor is topped up with a maintenance oil in place, often just in the worn walkways, no machines required. A lacquered floor is eventually screened and recoated by a professional when the top coat dulls, and an engineered board with a thick oak wear layer can often be sanded back if it ever needs a full refresh, subject to the wear-layer thickness and a flooring professional’s assessment. For product picks and how-to, see the maintenance and cleaning hub.

Good to know

Common questions

How do I clean timber floors in New Zealand?

Sweep or vacuum off grit first, then wipe the floor with a flat microfibre mop wrung out until barely damp, using a pH-neutral timber floor cleaner. Do this weekly, wipe spills straight away, and keep steam mops, wax polishes and harsh detergents off the floor.

Can I use a steam mop on wooden floors?

No. Steam mops and polishes can damage the finish, because steam forces heat and moisture into the boards and joints. Use a barely-damp microfibre mop and a pH-neutral timber cleaner instead.

What is the best mop for hardwood floors?

A flat microfibre mop, or a refillable microfibre spray mop, wrung out so the floor dries within a minute or two. Avoid string mops and buckets, which put far too much water on a timber floor.

How often should I mop a timber floor?

A damp mop once a week suits most homes, with a quick daily sweep or vacuum in busy entries and kitchens. Adjust to your traffic, pets and household. Grit control matters more than how often you mop.

Do oiled and lacquered floors need different care?

Day to day, no, both are dry-cleaned then barely-damp mopped. The difference is in the deeper upkeep: oiled floors are re-oiled in place, lacquered floors are eventually screened and recoated. If you are unsure which you have, see our floor finishes guide.

Keep going

Next steps

Maintenance hub

The full guide to caring for a timber floor, from everyday cleaning to re-oiling and recoating.

Read the care hub ›

Oiled vs lacquered

How to tell which finish you have, and what each one means for care and repair.

Compare finishes ›

See and feel it

Order free samples of our engineered European oak and check the finish in your own light.

Order free samples ›

Planning a new timber floor?

Order free samples to see the colour and finish in your own home, or tell us about your project and we will send a quote.

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Managing Water Damage to Wood Floors: When to Replace vs. Repair

Engineered European oak flooring in a New Zealand home

Vienna Woods · Articles

Water Damage to a Wood Floor: Repair or Replace?

Your first moves, the subfloor question, and when a floor can be saved.

Acted fast? Good. Lift the standing water, get air moving with fans and a dehumidifier, and stop the source. Then the real question is repair or replace, and it usually turns on three things: how long the floor sat wet, whether the water was clean or dirty, and whether the subfloor underneath is still sound. Here is how to work through it.

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First 24 hours

What to do straight away

The damage that decides repair versus replace mostly happens in the first day or two, so move quickly and keep drying until moisture readings are back to normal. Do not sand, re-coat or rip anything up yet: get it dry first, then assess.

1. Stop the source

Turn off the water at the mains, fix the burst pipe or leaking appliance, or wait out the flood. There is no point drying a floor that is still getting wet.

2. Lift the water

Mop, wet-vac or pump out standing water fast. The longer it sits, the more the boards and the subfloor soak up.

3. Dry it hard

Run fans across the floor and a dehumidifier in the room. Open windows on a dry day. Keep going for days, not hours.

4. Photograph everything

Take dated photos before you clean up. You will want them for an insurance claim and for a replacement quote.

Once the floor is dry, treat it gently while you decide. Our timber floor care and cleaning guide covers the right way to clean and look after a wood floor without adding to the problem.

Step one

Assess the damage honestly

Before you spend money, work out how bad it really is. Four things tell you most of what you need to know:

Time and water type

How long, how dirty

A short soak from clean water (a burst pipe or an overflowing sink) is the best case.
Days of standing water is a much harder save.
Grey or black water from drains, sewers or floodwater brings contaminants and bacteria, so those floors are usually replaced on health grounds, not just cost.

What you can see and smell

Movement and mould

Cupping (boards curling up at the edges), crowning or lifting at the joints.
Gaps that have opened or closed as the timber moved.
A musty smell, or visible mould or mildew on or under the floor, which points to replacement of the affected area.

Some cupping settles as the floor dries and moisture evens out, so do not judge it on day one. If you are unsure, a flooring installer can take moisture readings and tell you whether the movement is easing or here to stay. It also helps to know how the floor was built and fixed down in the first place: our timber flooring installation guide explains glue-down, floating and subfloor prep.

The part people forget

The subfloor question

The subfloor is what your floor is fixed to, and it decides more than the boards on top. If it has lost strength or holds moisture, the new floor you lay over it will fail too. Here is how the three common New Zealand subfloors behave when they get wet.

Particleboard / chipboard

Made from compressed wood particles, so it soaks up water fast, swells, and loses strength. Once a chipboard subfloor has been properly soaked it generally does not return to its original state and usually needs replacing.

Plywood

Copes with a wetting better than chipboard, but can still delaminate (the layers separate) or go soft and mouldy if it stays wet. Dry it fully, then check it is firm before you trust it.

Concrete slab

Will not rot, but holds moisture for a long time and must be properly dry before a new floor goes down. Have the slab moisture-tested rather than guessed at.

The short version: a subfloor that is still firm and dries out fully can often be kept, while one that has swollen, gone soft or grown mould should be replaced before anything new is laid. Because it carries the whole floor, this is the one call worth getting a builder or flooring installer to confirm.

The decision

When to repair, when to replace

Put the two together, the boards and the subfloor, and the answer usually falls into one of two camps.

Often repairable

You may be able to save it

Clean water, caught and dried quickly.
Damage limited to a small, contained area.
The subfloor is still sound once dry.
Surface cupping or discolouration that a professional may be able to sand back and refinish, depending on the thickness of the wear layer.
Localised damage where matching boards can be swapped into just the affected spot.

Usually replace

Better to start fresh

Days of standing water, or dirty grey or black water.
Boards badly swollen, warped or lifting off the subfloor.
Particleboard subfloor that has swollen, or plywood that has delaminated.
Any mould or mildew growth.
Damage across most of the room, where patching costs more than a clean replacement.

If replacement is the call, get a written quote before you commit, both for your own budget and for the insurer. Our guide to timber flooring cost in New Zealand sets out the price ranges and what drives them, and you can request a no-obligation replacement quote from us with the details of your floor.

The floor itself

Choosing a floor that lives with NZ homes

No timber floor is waterproof, and no floor should be left standing in water. That said, a well-built engineered floor is a practical choice for New Zealand living. Our boards are engineered European oak: a real oak wear layer over a multi-ply core, engineered to our specification to move less with humidity than a single piece of solid timber.

Engineered European oak that is correctly installed and looked after can be a sound, practical floor for New Zealand homes, though flooding is always a risk we cannot guarantee against. The best protection is the boring stuff done well: a dry subfloor, a proper installation, prompt attention to spills and leaks, and regular care.

Close-up of engineered European oak planks with a natural matt finish

Next time

How to avoid the next flood

Watch the wet rooms

Kitchens, laundries and bathrooms are where most leaks start. Check hoses on dishwashers and washing machines, and swap perished ones before they burst.

Wipe spills straight away

Standing water is the enemy, not the odd splash. Mop up spills quickly and use mats at doors and sinks.

Fit leak protection

A simple water-leak alarm under the dishwasher or hot-water cylinder can catch a slow leak before it reaches the floor.

Keep up the care

A well-maintained finish sheds the everyday moisture of family life better than a tired one. Follow the care routine and re-coat when it is due.

Good to know

Common questions

Can a water-damaged wood floor be repaired?

Sometimes. If the water was clean, was caught quickly and the boards and subfloor are still sound once dried, a professional can often dry, sand back and refinish the affected area. If the floor stayed wet for days, was flooded with dirty water, or the subfloor has swollen, replacement is usually the safer call. Get a flooring professional to assess it before you decide.

When should the subfloor be replaced after water damage?

Replace the subfloor when it has lost strength: particleboard or chipboard that has swollen, plywood that has delaminated or gone soft, or any subfloor showing mould. A subfloor that is still firm and dries out fully can often be kept. Because it holds the whole floor, have it checked by a builder or flooring installer rather than guessing.

Can a chipboard or particleboard subfloor get wet?

Chipboard and particleboard are made from compressed wood particles, so they soak up water quickly, swell and lose strength. Once a chipboard subfloor has been properly soaked it usually does not return to its original state and generally needs replacing. Plywood copes better with a wetting but should still be dried fully and checked.

How quickly do I need to dry a flooded timber floor?

As fast as you can. The sooner you lift standing water and get fans and a dehumidifier running, the better your chances. Most of the damage that decides repair versus replace happens in the first day or two, so act straight away and keep drying until moisture readings are back to normal.

Will my insurance cover replacing a flooded floor?

Often, yes, when the flooding is a sudden event like a burst pipe or an appliance leak, though it depends on your policy. Keep dated photos of the damage, note when it happened, and get a written replacement quote. We can supply a no-obligation quote you can pass to your insurer.

Can you match new boards to my existing floor?

Often, if the range and colour are still available. Send us a photo and, ideally, a spare board, then order a free sample to check the match before you commit. Colour and grade shift a little between batches, so an exact match on an older floor is not guaranteed.

More answers on ranges, lead times and ordering are on our timber flooring FAQ.

Keep going

Helpful next steps

Order free samples

See and feel our engineered European oak at home before you replace a floor. Free samples, delivered NZ-wide.

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Care and cleaning

Keep a new or existing floor in good shape with the right cleaning routine and products.

Read the care guide →

What it costs

Price ranges for engineered oak flooring in New Zealand, and what moves the number up or down.

See flooring costs →

Flooded floor? Get a straight answer.

Send us the details and photos and we will help you work out repair versus replace, and price a replacement if you need one for your insurer.

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How to Deal with Scratches and Dents in Timber Flooring

European oak timber flooring from the Distilled Collection in an open plan interior, Auckland

Vienna Woods · Articles

Scratch and Dent Repair for Wood Floors

Fix minor marks yourself, and know when to call a pro.

Most scratches in a wood floor are fixable at home: clean the spot, work in a colour-matched maintenance oil or wax, then buff. Deep gouges and dents are trickier, and lacquered floors usually need a professional for anything past the surface. Here is how to tell which job is which.

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Start here

First, work out what finish you have

Repairing a wood floor comes down to one thing: whether it is oiled or lacquered. An oiled floor has oil worked into the timber, so a damaged patch can usually be re-oiled on the spot and blended in. A lacquered floor has a clear coat sitting on top, which tends to resist everyday marks, but once that coat is cut through, the fix normally means sanding and re-coating a whole board or area to blend, which is a job for a professional.

Not sure which you have? Our guide to oiled and lacquered finishes walks through the difference, and the floor finishes explained page shows how each one wears and repairs.

Quick triage

Match the damage to the fix

Damage	Oiled floor	Lacquered floor
Surface scratch (in the finish, not the timber)	Clean, re-oil the spot, buff	Colour wax or touch-up pen, then buff
Deeper scratch or light gouge	Lightly abrade the board, re-oil, blend	Usually a pro: sand and re-coat the area
Dent (crushed timber)	Damp-cloth-and-iron may lift shallow dents; wax-fill the deeper ones	Wax-fill, or replace the plank for larger dents

Rule of thumb: if the damage is only in the finish, it is a home job. Once it reaches raw timber, or the floor is lacquered, get a pro to blend it.

Close-up of rustic European oak timber flooring with a natural oil finish

Step by step

Fixing a minor scratch on an oiled floor

1. Clean the spot

Wipe the area with a barely damp cloth and a wood-floor soap so the oil bonds to clean timber, not dust. Let it dry fully.

2. Match the oil

Use a colour-matched maintenance oil, or a wax stick close to your floor tone. Test on an offcut or a hidden corner first.

3. Work it in

Rub a small amount along the grain with a clean cloth, feathering out past the scratch so there is no hard edge.

4. Buff and cure

Buff off the excess, then leave it to cure before you walk on it or move furniture back. Give it a day where you can.

A tin of colour-matched oil such as FirstFloor’s Maintenance Oil (Matt) covers most touch-ups and doubles as your regular refresh. The full routine lives on our maintenance and cleaning guide.

The trickier one

Dealing with dents

A dent is crushed timber, not just a mark in the finish, so it behaves differently. On bare or oiled oak, laying a damp cloth over the dent and warming it with an iron can swell the crushed fibres and lift a shallow dent, then re-oil the spot once it dries. Do this sparingly: too much heat or water can harm the finish, and on a lacquered floor the steam has nowhere to go, so leave those to a professional.

Deeper dents are filled with a colour-matched hard wax. If a board is badly damaged, the plank is lifted and replaced, which is fiddly to blend, so it is worth getting a flooring specialist to match the colour and finish.

Know the line

DIY or call a professional?

Fix at home

Small, shallow, oiled

Surface scratches and light scuffs
Shallow dents in oiled or bare timber
One or two isolated spots
Marks you can only see in raking light

Call a pro

Deep, wide, or lacquered

Deep gouges through to raw wood
Any real damage on a lacquered floor
Scratches or dents across several boards
Anything near a water mark or a lifting board

If in doubt, send us a photo with your quote request and we will tell you whether it is a weekend job or a call to a floor specialist.

Prevention

Stop the scratches before they start

Felt the feet

Stick felt pads under chairs, tables and sofas, and check them twice a year. Grit trapped under a chair leg is the most common cause of fine scratches.

Trap grit at the door

A mat outside and one inside catch the sand and grit that act like sandpaper underfoot. Most floor scratches walk in on shoes.

Lift, do not drag

Lift furniture rather than sliding it, and fit proper glides under anything heavy before it moves.

Sweep and refresh

Sweep or vacuum with a soft head regularly, and re-oil high-traffic paths before they look tired, not after.

Choosing a floor and want to judge the finish first? Order free samples and compare oiled and lacquered European oak in your own light before you commit.

Keep going

Helpful next steps

Order free samples

Compare oiled and lacquered European oak in your own home before you decide.

Order samples

Care and cleaning

The simple routine that keeps a wood floor looking its best, year after year.

See the care guide

Floor finishes explained

How oiled, lacquered and matt finishes differ, and how each one repairs.

Read the guide

Good to know

Common questions

How do you repair scratches in a wood floor?

For a surface scratch, clean the spot, then work a colour-matched maintenance oil (on oiled floors) or a wax stick or touch-up pen (on lacquered floors) into the mark and buff. Deeper scratches that reach bare timber usually need light sanding and re-coating, which is often a job for a professional.

Can you fix dents in hardwood floors?

Often, yes. Shallow dents in bare or oiled oak can frequently be raised by laying a damp cloth over the spot and warming it with an iron to swell the crushed fibres, then re-oiling. Deeper dents are filled with colour-matched hard wax, and badly damaged boards are replaced by a flooring specialist.

Do oiled or lacquered floors scratch more easily?

A lacquered coating tends to resist everyday marks a little better because it sits on top of the timber, but when it is cut through the repair is usually bigger. Oiled floors mark more readily yet are far easier to touch up in a single spot at home.

Can you repair a scratch without refinishing the whole floor?

On an oiled floor, usually yes: you re-oil just the damaged patch and blend it in. On a lacquered floor you can hide light surface scratches with wax, but deeper damage normally means re-coating at least the affected board or area.

How do I stop my wood floor getting scratched?

Felt pads under furniture, mats at every entrance to catch grit, lifting rather than dragging heavy items, and regular soft sweeping prevent most scratches. Grit underfoot and under chair legs causes the majority of fine marks.

More answers on our frequently asked questions page.

See and feel the finish for yourself

The best way to judge how a floor wears and repairs is to hold it. Order free samples of our European oak, or send us your project for a quote.

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Are Timber Floors a Good Choice with Pets?

Black Labrador sitting on a timber floor in a New Zealand home

Vienna Woods · Articles

Are timber floors a good choice with pets?

Yes, with the right timber, the right finish and a simple care routine.

Short answer: yes. Timber suits homes with dogs and cats, and it is far easier to keep clean than carpet. Pick a harder timber and a matt finish that help hide marks, keep nails trimmed, put mats at the doors, and wipe up spills fast. No floor is scratch-proof, but a well-chosen timber floor wears in gracefully.

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The honest answer

Good with pets, if you choose well

Timber earns its place in a home with animals. It sweeps and vacuums clean in seconds, pet hair does not sink into it the way it does with carpet, and there is nothing for dander and allergens to settle into. The trade-off is that claws, grit and the odd accident all leave a mark, so the choices you make up front are what matter.

Get the timber, the grade and the finish right and you rarely think about it again. Our timber flooring collections give you a good range to choose from, and the tips below sort the practical from the nice-to-know.

Set it up right

Six ways to make timber work with pets

Choose a harder timber

A denser hardwood like European oak takes daily life better than a soft timber. It will not stop every scratch, but it gives you a firmer surface to start from.

Go matt or oiled

A matt or satin finish tends to disguise fine surface marks far better than gloss, where every scuff catches the light. Our floor finishes explained guide covers the difference.

Pick a character grade

A character grade, with its natural knots and colour movement, lets the odd mark blend in far more forgivingly than a clean, uniform floor. Our brushed, oiled Patina range wears this look well.

Keep nails trimmed

Trimmed claws are the single biggest thing you can do. Long nails are what scratch a floor, on any surface, so keep your dog or cat clipped and the damage drops right off.

Mats at the doors and bowls

A mat at each entry catches the grit that does the real damage. A mat under the food and water bowls guards against splashes, and rugs give older pets better grip on a smooth floor.

Wipe spills quickly

Timber is natural and does not love standing water, so mop up accidents and spills promptly rather than leaving them to sit. Prompt clean-ups are the whole trick with moisture.

Warm character-grade European oak flooring in a living room with a rug and wood fire

What to expect

A few marks are normal, and that is fine

Here is the part no one selling a “pet-proof” floor will admit: no timber floor is scratch-proof, and neither is anything else you put down. A busy floor picks up small marks over the years. On a character-grade oak with a matt or oiled finish, those marks tend to settle into the grain rather than stand out, and the floor takes on a lived-in patina that many owners come to prefer.

When a spot does need attention, an oil finish is the friendly one: it can be re-oiled in place, not sanded back, so a worn patch by the door or the dog bed is a quick fix rather than a whole-room job. Our timber floor care and cleaning guide covers the day-to-day routine.

Next steps

Where to from here

Character-grade oak

Warm, knotty European oak that forgives the odd mark from a busy household.

See the Petit Chateau range →

Order free samples

Lay a few boards where your pets actually live and see the timber in your own light.

Get free samples →

Keep it looking good

The simple day-to-day routine that keeps a timber floor in good shape with pets about.

Read the care guide →

Good to know

Timber floors and pets: common questions

Are timber floors OK with dogs?

Generally yes. Timber suits dog owners because it wipes clean in seconds and does not trap hair or odour the way carpet does. Choose a harder timber such as oak, a matt or oiled finish, and keep your dog’s nails trimmed. No floor resists every scratch, but those choices help a floor cope with an active dog.

Will my dog's nails scratch a wood floor?

They can, especially long claws at a run down the hallway. Regular nail trims are the best prevention. A matt or oiled finish and a character grade also help fine marks blend into the grain rather than catch the eye. We would never call any floor scratch-proof.

What is the best floor finish for a home with pets?

A matt or satin finish, and oiled finishes in particular. Matt tends to disguise fine surface marks that a gloss would highlight, and an oil finish can be re-oiled in place if a patch wears, not sanded back. Our floor finishes explained guide walks through the options.

How do I clean up a pet accident on timber?

Wipe it up straight away with a cloth, then clean the spot with a damp, not wet, mop and a timber-safe cleaner. Timber is a natural material and does not like sitting water, so the sooner you deal with a spill the better. Avoid steam mops and harsh chemicals.

Which Vienna Woods floors suit pet owners?

Our character-grade European oak, engineered overseas to our own specification, is a sensible starting point: the natural knots and colour movement forgive the odd mark, and matt or oiled finishes are easy to live with. Order a few free samples and see them in your own light before you decide.

See how it looks in your home

Order a free sample pack and lay a few boards where your pets actually live. When you are ready, we will help you spec the right floor.

Order free samples Request a quote

Ciranova Maintenance Oil DIY guide

Oiled European oak timber floor in a New Zealand home

Vienna Woods · Articles

Ciranova Maintenance Oil: How to Re-Oil Your Floor

A simple DIY refresh you can do in an afternoon.

Ciranova Maintenance Oil is a top-up oil for oiled timber floors. To refresh yours at home: vacuum and clean the floor, let it dry, spray on a thin coat of oil, buff it in along the grain with a micro-fibre mop, then leave it to cure before you wash it again. No sanding needed.

Shop Ciranova Maintenance Oil Floor care hub

What it does

What Ciranova Maintenance Oil is for

Oiled timber floors are finished with a penetrating oil that soaks into the timber rather than sitting on top like a lacquer. Foot traffic gradually wears that oil back. Ciranova Maintenance Oil is designed to top the oil up, which helps refresh the look of a tired floor and keeps the surface easy to care for.

It is made for oiled and hardwax-oiled floors only, not lacquered or UV-cured ones. If you are not sure which finish you have, our guide to floor finishes explains how to tell.

Timing

When to re-oil

Most oiled floors in a home want a refresh roughly once a year, sooner in kitchens, hallways and other high-traffic areas. The usual signs are a floor that looks dry or dull, or one that marks and stains more easily than it used to. We cover this in full in how to know when it is time to re-oil your timber floor. Top up busy zones on their own when they need it, rather than doing the whole floor too often.

Safety first

Dispose of oily cloths safely

Oil-soaked cloths and mop heads can catch fire on their own as the oil reacts with air. As soon as you finish, seal any used cloths or micro-fibre heads in a plastic bag, soak them with water, and put them in an outdoor bin. Never leave them screwed up in a pile indoors.

Kit

What you need

A sponge mop and bucket to clean the floor first.
A micro-fibre mop to spread and buff the oil.
A plastic spray bottle with a squirt nozzle.
A cleaner made for oiled floors.
A pair of socks, so you can stay off a fresh coat in shoes.

For everyday mops and cleaners, our floor-care brand FirstFloor stocks the kit.

Step by step

How to apply the oil

1. Clean the floor first

Vacuum, then damp-mop with an oiled-floor cleaner so you are working on a clean surface. Let it dry fully before you start. The right products are on our floor care hub.

2. Shake and decant

Shake the maintenance oil well, then pour a small amount into your spray bottle. Set the nozzle to squirt, not fine mist.

3. Spray a thin coat

Squirt the oil onto the boards a section at a time. A little goes a long way. Keep it off skirtings and spread in the direction of the grain. Work around any heavy furniture you cannot move.

4. Buff it in

Using firm pressure on the micro-fibre mop, spread and buff the oil in evenly. Aim for a thin, even film, with no puddles or thick patches that will not dry.

5. Dry, socks only

Give the coat time to dry before walking on it, and only in socks so shoe prints do not set into the oil. Move furniture back a day or two later.

6. Let it cure

Hold off washing the floor for the curing time on the product label so the oil can fully harden, then return to your normal cleaning routine.

Get it right

Tips and common mistakes

Keep it thin

A thin coat, buffed well, beats a thick one. Too much oil stays tacky and will not cure.
Test a small, out-of-the-way area first if you are unsure.
Work in good light so you can see your coverage.
Lay oiled floors after plastering and painting, and protect them from dust and paint splashes, which are hard to remove from a textured surface.

Avoid

What to skip

Do not use solvents or harsh cleaners. They can lift the finish.
Do not scrub hard at paint or glue. Wipe paint while it is wet, or lift dried glue gently with a thumbnail.
Do not oil a lacquered floor. The oil cannot soak into a sealed surface.
Do not leave oily cloths lying around. Bag, wet and bin them straight away.

Keep going

Handy next steps

Ciranova Maintenance Oil

The matt top-up oil for oiled and hardwax-oiled floors, the same one this guide uses.

Shop the oil →

Floor care, start to finish

Cleaners, mops and the full routine for oiled and lacquered timber floors.

Visit the care hub →

When to re-oil

The signs your oiled floor is ready for a fresh coat, and how often to top it up.

Read the timing guide →

Good to know

Common questions

Can I use Ciranova Maintenance Oil on a lacquered floor?

No. It is made for oiled and hardwax-oiled floors, where the oil soaks into the timber. Lacquered and UV-cured floors are sealed on top, so the oil cannot penetrate. If you are not sure which you have, our guide to floor finishes explains how to tell.

Do I need to sand the floor before re-oiling?

No. Re-oiling simply tops up the oil already in the timber, so there is no sanding. Sanding back is only needed to strip and refinish a badly worn or damaged floor.

How often should I re-oil an oiled floor?

For most homes, roughly once a year, sooner in high-traffic areas or when the floor looks dry or marks easily. See our guide on when it is time to re-oil for the full picture.

Can I do it myself, or do I need a professional?

Most homeowners can do it with a micro-fibre mop and a spray bottle. For very large or commercial floors, a professional will use a buffing machine for an even finish.

What should I clean the floor with first?

Use a cleaner made for oiled floors, not a general or soap-heavy product that can leave residue. You will find the right options on our floor care hub.

More questions? See our full FAQ page.

Planning a new oiled floor?

Our European oak floors are engineered overseas to our specification and come oil-finished or lacquered. Order free samples to see the colours at home, or ask us for a quote on your space.

Order free samples Request a quote

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