How Hard-Wearing are NZ Native Timber Floors?

Engineered European oak flooring in a Vienna Woods hallway and landing

Vienna Woods · Articles

How hard-wearing are NZ native timber floors?

The Janka hardness scale, NZ natives, and where engineered European oak fits.

New Zealand native timber floors are moderately hard-wearing, but it varies a lot by species. The Janka scale rates hardness by pressing a steel ball into the timber and measuring the dent. Totara and jarrah rate high on published figures; rimu, kauri and matai are softer and tend to show wear sooner.

The Janka scale

What the Janka hardness scale measures

Janka is the standard way to compare a timber’s resistance to denting and wear. A small steel ball is pressed into the wood with a set force, and the depth of the indentation gives a rating in pounds-force (lbf). A higher number generally means a harder, more dent-resistant surface.

It is a useful guide, not a guarantee. Real-world wear also depends on the finish, the wear layer, the traffic a floor sees and how the floor is cleaned and cared for. Two floors with a similar Janka number can wear very differently in a busy family home.

Indicative figures

Janka hardness: NZ natives and common species

The figures below are widely published reference values, shown as an indicative guide only. They are not measured by Vienna Woods and are not a performance guarantee for any specific floor.

Species Janka rating (lbf, indicative)
Brazilian cherry 2,820
Totara (NZ native) 2,040
Jarrah 2,020
Maple 1,450
European oak 1,350
Teak 1,155
Rimu (NZ native) 1,010
Matai (NZ native) 940
Kauri (NZ native) 890

Totara rates high among NZ natives. Rimu, matai and kauri sit lower on published figures and tend to dent and mark more readily under everyday traffic.

The honest read

So how hard-wearing are they, really?

It comes down to the species. Totara sits near the top of the scale, so a sound totara floor is generally hard-wearing. Rimu, matai and kauri are softer, and going by their published Janka figures they will tend to dent and mark more readily under day-to-day traffic.

Many older native floors also carry decades of wear. Sanding them back, matching boards and extending a floor into a new space can be involved, and the cost is sometimes hard to justify, especially where the original timber is difficult to source. If you are weighing that up, our guide to timber flooring cost in NZ is a good place to start.

The overlay option

Where engineered European oak fits

If you are replacing or overlaying a tired native floor, engineered European oak is the option we are asked about most. On published Janka figures it sits mid-range, around 1,350 lbf: harder than rimu, matai and kauri, in a similar band to maple, and softer than totara or jarrah. Hardness is only part of the story, though.

Native timber

Solid, characterful, variable

  • Genuine character and history in the grain
  • Species and hardness vary widely, so wear does too
  • Can be restored a limited number of times
  • Matching and refinishing older boards can be costly
Engineered European oak

A real oak wear layer, engineered for stability

  • A genuine European oak top layer on an engineered core designed for stability
  • Consistent grade and colour across a large open-plan area
  • The oak surface can generally be recoated or refreshed over time
  • Designed to suit New Zealand homes and modern subfloors

Vienna Woods’ oak is European oak, engineered overseas to our specification. Browse the full range of engineered oak collections, or read our engineered vs solid timber flooring guide to see which suits your renovation.

Engineered European oak flooring, a wide brushed plank in a natural oil finish
Choosing

Keep the native floor, or overlay in oak?

Keep and restore

If your native boards are sound and you love the character, restoring can be the right call. Budget for sanding, matching and refinishing, and expect some visible history to stay in the timber.

Overlay in engineered oak

If the floor is worn beyond an easy fix, or you want a consistent look across a large open-plan area, an engineered oak overlay gives you a fresh, uniform floor over the existing subfloor.

Good to know

Common questions

What is the Janka scale?

The Janka scale measures a timber’s resistance to denting and wear. A steel ball is pressed into the wood with a set force and the depth of the dent is recorded as a rating in pounds-force (lbf). A higher number generally indicates a harder, more dent-resistant surface. It is an indicative guide, not a guarantee, and does not account for finish, wear layer or how a floor is cared for.

Is European oak harder than NZ native timber?

Not always. On published Janka figures European oak is around 1,350 lbf, which is harder than rimu, matai and kauri, but softer than totara and jarrah. These figures are indicative reference values, not a Vienna Woods performance guarantee. Hardness is only one factor: for a whole-home floor, a consistent grade, a stable engineered core and a refinishable oak wear layer often matter more than a single Janka number.

How hard-wearing is rimu or kauri flooring?

Rimu and kauri sit lower on published Janka figures than totara or oak, so they are relatively soft and, going by those figures, tend to dent and mark more readily under everyday traffic. They can still make a beautiful floor, but they usually need a little more care and are more prone to showing wear over time.

Can I lay new engineered oak over my existing floor?

Often, yes. An engineered oak overlay is frequently used to give a tired native floor a fresh, uniform surface, subject to a check of the existing subfloor and floor height. The best next step is to order a few samples and request a quote so we can advise on your specific floor.

Order free samples

See and feel the oak in your own light before you decide. Compare tones and grades side by side, at home.

Order free samples →

What it costs

An honest guide to what engineered oak flooring costs per square metre in New Zealand, by tier.

Timber flooring cost in NZ →

Browse the range

Explore the full set of Vienna Woods engineered European oak collections, from pale to smoked.

See the collections →

Compare oak against your native floor at home

Order a few free samples, see them in your own light, and talk to us about overlaying or replacing a tired native floor with engineered European oak.

The Differences Between Oiled & Lacquered Timber Floors

Close-up of engineered European oak flooring showing grain and finish in an Auckland home

Vienna Woods · Articles

Oiled vs lacquered timber floors: the honest comparison

Two finishes, one real trade-off: feel and repairs versus low-fuss care.

Oiled floors are penetrating: the oil soaks into the timber, so you touch real wood and worn patches can usually be spot-repaired in place. Lacquered floors sit under a surface coat that is generally harder-wearing and more spill-resistant, but harder to patch invisibly. Neither is better. It is a feel-and-maintenance choice.

The short answer

What is the difference between oiled and lacquered flooring?

The difference between oiled and lacquered flooring is where the finish sits. An oil penetrates into the timber and leaves a matt, open surface, so your bare foot meets the wood itself. A lacquer is a clear coat that cures on top of the boards, giving a slightly harder, more sealed surface. That single difference drives everything else: how the floor looks and feels, how you clean it, how you repair a scratch, and what upkeep costs over the years.

Both are excellent finishes on quality engineered European oak. Vienna Woods carries floors in both across its ranges, so the right pick comes down to your rooms, your household and how hands-on you want to be. Compare the tones in person by ordering a set of free timber samples.

Side by side

Oiled and lacquered at a glance

Oiled

Natural feel, repair in place

  • Matt, natural look that brings out grain and depth
  • Softer, warmer feel underfoot, you touch the timber
  • Worn or scratched patches can usually be spot-repaired without sanding the whole floor
  • Needs a specific oiled-floor cleaner and a periodic re-oil
  • Best where you want the most natural finish and will keep up light care
Lacquered

Low-fuss, harder surface

  • Matt to satin, modern matt lacquers look very natural
  • Firmer feel, you touch the coating rather than the wood
  • Generally more resistant to everyday scuffs and spills
  • Simple day-to-day care: sweep and damp-mop with a suitable cleaner, no re-oiling
  • Best for busy households, hallways and rentals where low upkeep matters
Head to head

Oiled vs lacquered: the full comparison

What matters Oiled finish Lacquered finish
Look Matt and natural, emphasises grain and colour depth Matt to satin, very natural on modern matt lacquers, a touch more uniform
Feel underfoot Softer and warmer, you are in direct contact with the timber Firmer, you touch the surface coat rather than the wood
Everyday wear Wears gradually, small marks tend to blend into the matt surface Generally more scratch and scuff resistant (indicative, varies by traffic)
Spills and water Wipe spills promptly, more sensitive to standing water Generally more spill and water resistant thanks to the surface film (indicative)
Spot repair Usually repairable in place, re-oil the affected area, no full sand Harder to patch a single scratch invisibly
Routine care Sweep, then clean with a specific oiled-floor product, re-oil periodically Sweep, then damp-mop with a suitable timber cleaner, no re-oiling
Re-coat / refinish Top up the oil over time, often every couple of years by traffic (indicative) A full sand and recoat eventually, often quoted at roughly 10 to 15 years (indicative)
Cost over time Cheaper, more frequent top-ups you can often do yourself Less frequent care, but refinishing is a larger one-off job

These durability, water-resistance and maintenance points are indicative guidance from typical experience, not performance guarantees. Vienna Woods does not currently hold independent testing comparing these finishes, and real results vary by product, traffic, subfloor conditions and how the floor is cared for. For a specific product, check its own care guide or ask us for a quote and advice.

Engineered European oak flooring grain and finish detail in an Auckland home
Which suits you

When to choose each finish

Choose oiled if

You want the most natural, tactile finish, you like that grain and colour read strongly, and you are happy to use the right cleaner and re-oil the floor now and then. Oil also appeals if you value that a worn patch can usually be repaired in place rather than refinishing the whole room.

Choose lacquered if

You want lower-fuss day-to-day care and a harder surface for a busy home, hallway, holiday house or rental. Modern matt lacquers still look natural, and everyday cleaning is a quick sweep and damp mop. It is a common pick where the floor sees heavy foot traffic (indicative).

Think about the room

Kitchens, entries and living areas take the most punishment, so weigh how quickly spills get wiped and how house-proud the household is. Bedrooms and formal spaces are gentler, which widens your options. Our floor finishes guide walks through every finish we offer.

Feel both, then decide

A photo cannot show sheen or texture. Order free samples of the colours you like in both finishes, put them down in the actual light of your room, and see which one you keep coming back to. Then request a quote for supply or supply and install.

At Vienna Woods

We carry both finishes across our oak ranges

All of our timber is European oak, engineered overseas to our specification for New Zealand homes, and we offer both oiled and lacquered floors so you are not forced to compromise the look you want for the upkeep you prefer. As a guide, our Patina Collection is finished in a UV oil that is maintained by re-oiling in place, while our Petit Chateau range is finished in a hard-wearing German UV lacquer.

Browse everything grouped by finish on our oiled floors and lacquered floors pages, then read the wider floor finishes explained guide for how oil, lacquer and ultra-matt finishes differ. When you have a shortlist, order free samples to compare them at home.

Good to know

Common questions

Can you wax wood floors?

You can, but on a modern engineered oak floor it is usually the wrong product. An oiled floor is best maintained with a purpose-made maintenance oil or an oiled-floor soap, not paste wax, and a lacquered floor is cleaned with a damp mop and a suitable timber cleaner. Traditional wax can build up, get slippery, attract dirt and interfere with any future re-oiling or recoating, so we do not recommend waxing our floors. Follow the care guide for your finish instead.

Which lasts longer, oiled or lacquered?

It is less about a fixed lifespan and more about how you maintain the floor. An oiled floor is topped up little and often, so it is renewed in place over the years. A lacquered floor is recoated far less frequently, but when it is due it is a bigger sand-and-refinish job, often quoted at roughly 10 to 15 years. Both figures are indicative and depend heavily on traffic and care.

Is oiled or lacquered better for a busy household?

Lacquered is a common choice for high-traffic homes because it offers a harder surface and lower day-to-day fuss (indicative). That said, an oiled floor also stands up well if you keep on top of the maintenance, and it has the advantage that worn areas can usually be repaired in place. Order samples in both and decide from your own rooms.

Can you clean an oiled floor the same way as a lacquered one?

No. Standard or general-purpose cleaners can strip the oil from an oiled floor, so it needs a specific oiled-floor product. A lacquered floor is more forgiving and takes a damp mop with a suitable timber cleaner. Our maintenance and cleaning guide sets out the right routine for each finish.

Can you change a floor from lacquered to oiled, or oiled to lacquered?

In most cases yes, at the point of a full refinish. An installer can sand the boards back to raw timber and apply the finish you prefer, provided there is enough wear layer left to sand. It is a bigger, more disruptive job than routine care, so talk to us before you commit.

More answers on our full timber flooring FAQ.

Keep exploring

Next steps

Free timber samples

Feel oiled and lacquered oak side by side in your own light before you commit to a floor.

Order samples →

Caring for your floor

The right cleaning routine for each finish, so your oak keeps looking its best.

Maintenance & cleaning →

What a floor costs

Understand the supply and install numbers, plus the upkeep cost of each finish over time.

Timber flooring cost →

Not sure which finish is right for your home?

Order free samples in the finishes you like, or talk to our team about supply and installation across Auckland and beyond. We will help you weigh feel, upkeep and cost against how you actually live.

Floating Timber Floor Installation vs Glue-Down Installation

Floating vs glue-down timber flooring, natural European oak floor in a living room

Vienna Woods · Articles

Floating vs glue-down timber flooring

Two proven install methods, one honest comparison.

Floating floors click together over an underlay: faster, cheaper and easy to lift later. Glue-down bonds each board to the subfloor, which many installers rate for a firmer feel underfoot. For engineered European oak we generally favour glue-down where the subfloor suits, but it depends. Here is the honest comparison.

Side by side

Floating vs glue-down: the honest comparison

Both methods are used across New Zealand homes. Neither is best in the abstract. The right one depends on your subfloor, the room and your budget. The notes below are general guidance, not a guarantee, and actual results depend on the subfloor and the installer.

What matters Floating Glue-down
Feel underfoot Slight give over the underlay, and it can sound a touch hollow Bonded to the subfloor, so many find it feels firmer and more solid
Acoustics Depends heavily on the underlay, and a good acoustic underlay helps The bond can reduce hollowness, subject to subfloor and installation
Subfloor suitability Forgiving over concrete, tiles or a sound existing floor, within tolerance Needs a sound, flat, dry subfloor prepared to the adhesive maker’s spec
Underfloor heating Can work with underfloor heating, subject to the manufacturer’s install requirements Often preferred for underfloor heating, subject to the manufacturer’s install requirements
Repairability Easier to lift and replace boards, or take the floor with you Harder to lift, and single boards are more work to replace
Cost Lower materials and labour, quicker to lay More adhesive and skilled labour, so usually costs more

Moisture performance is not decided by the method alone. Any timber floor needs the subfloor moisture-tested and the right primer or adhesive system chosen to the manufacturer’s requirements.

Which to choose

When each method makes sense

Choose floating when

Speed, budget or flexibility come first

  • The subfloor is even and dry, within tolerance
  • You want a quicker, lower-cost install
  • You may lift the floor later, a rental or a staged reno
  • You are laying over concrete, tiles or a sound existing floor
Choose glue-down when

You want a solid, permanent result

  • You want the firmest feel underfoot the boards allow
  • The floor is going into a busy, high-traffic home
  • You are running underfloor heating, to the maker’s spec
  • The subfloor is sound, flat and dry, or can be prepared to be
Our recommendation

For engineered European oak, we usually glue down

Our boards are European oak, engineered overseas to Vienna Woods’ specification. For most homes we recommend a glue-down install, because a bonded floor tends to feel firmer and more solid underfoot, subject to the subfloor and the installer. That said, it genuinely depends. If your subfloor suits a floating install and speed or flexibility matter more, floating is a sound choice.

Whichever way you go, the outcome rides on preparation. The subfloor must be flat, dry, sound and moisture-tested, and the floor installed to the board and adhesive maker’s requirements. Our timber flooring installation guide covers subfloor prep, tolerances and the adhesive system, and a good installer will confirm the right method for your space.

Flexible wood-flooring adhesive trowelled onto a prepared subfloor for a glue-down timber floor
Keep reading

Plan your floor

Installation guide

Subfloor prep, tolerances, adhesive and the method that suits your space.

How we install →

What it costs

A plain-English guide to timber flooring pricing in New Zealand.

See flooring costs →

The engineered oak range

Browse our engineered European oak collections and formats.

Explore the range →

Good to know

Common questions

Is floating or glue-down better for engineered oak?

Neither is better in the abstract. For engineered European oak we generally favour glue-down for a firmer feel underfoot, subject to the subfloor and the installer, but floating is a sound choice where the subfloor suits and speed or flexibility matter more.

Can either method go over underfloor heating?

Both can be used with underfloor heating, subject to the board manufacturer’s installation requirements. Confirm the method, acclimatisation and temperature limits with your installer before you start.

Is a glue-down floor quieter than a floating floor?

A bonded floor can feel less hollow underfoot, but acoustics depend heavily on the subfloor, the underlay and the install. A quality acoustic underlay can make a real difference to a floating floor.

Which method costs more?

Glue-down usually costs more, because it uses more adhesive and skilled labour. Floating is quicker to lay and generally lighter on materials and labour. See our timber flooring cost guide for the ranges.

Can a floating floor be laid over concrete?

Often yes, if the concrete is flat, sound and within tolerance, and the subfloor is moisture-tested first. The board and underlay makers’ requirements set the limits, so check them with your installer.

See the oak in your own light

Order free samples, or send us your plans for a quote. We will help you choose the floor and the right way to lay it.

Quiet Floors

Engineered European oak timber flooring laid quiet and solid underfoot

Vienna Woods · Articles

Acoustic timber flooring in NZ: what makes a floor quieter

Underlay, adhesive and install method, the levers that quieten a timber floor.

Want a quieter timber floor? Most of the difference comes from three things: a good acoustic underlay, gluing the boards down rather than floating them, and a flat, sound subfloor. Get those right and an engineered oak floor feels solid and quiet underfoot, though the result always depends on the underlay, subfloor and install.

The short answer

What actually makes a timber floor quieter

There is no single quiet floor. Sound comes down to the whole system: the underlay or acoustic mat under the boards, whether the floor is glued down or floating, how flat and solid the subfloor is, and the adhesive that ties it together. A good acoustic underlay is the single biggest lever on impact sound, the thud you hear from footsteps, subject to the system used.

Two kinds of noise matter. Impact sound is footsteps, dropped items and chair scrapes travelling down into the room below. Airborne sound is voices and TV passing through the floor. In apartments and upstairs rooms, impact sound is usually the one people notice, and it is the one the underlay and install method target. If you are new to the format, our guide to engineered timber flooring covers how the boards are built.

Install method

Glue-down vs floating: which is quieter

Glue-down

Bonded to the subfloor

The boards are bonded straight to the subfloor with a full-spread adhesive, usually over an acoustic underlay glued down first. Gluing the boards down, rather than floating them, tends to give a more solid, quieter feel underfoot, though this depends on the subfloor and adhesive used. It is the method we usually recommend for apartments and upper floors.

  • Solid feel, less hollow sound
  • Preferred for apartments and body-corporate builds
  • Needs a flat, sound, dry subfloor
  • Pairs with an acoustic underlay glued underneath
Floating

Laid loose over underlay

The boards clip together and sit loose over a foam or rubber underlay, not fixed to the subfloor. It is faster to lay and forgiving of a less-than-perfect subfloor, but a floating floor can feel and sound more hollow underfoot unless a quality acoustic underlay is used. See our timber flooring installation guide for how each method is laid.

  • Faster, no adhesive
  • More hollow feel without the right underlay
  • Handy over some existing floors
  • Check your body corporate allows it
The underlay

The acoustic underlay does the heavy lifting

If you only get one layer right, make it the underlay. Vienna Woods stocks acoustic underlays built for exactly this, designed to sit under a glued-down floor and soften impact sound, subject to the system used. The right one depends on your subfloor, whether you need moisture protection, and the acoustic rating your building sets.

Cork / rubber mat

Cork-rubber acoustic mat

A dense cork-and-rubber mat, typically glued to the subfloor with the timber then glued on top. A good pick where you want a high-performing layer under a glued-down floor in an apartment.

  • Glue-down system: mat first, then boards
  • Suits apartments and upper floors
  • Dense, load-bearing feel
Twin-foam underlay

Twin-foam AquaStop underlay

A smart double-foam underlay with a built-in moisture-blocking surface, made for upstairs areas and apartments where both sound and damp matter. Also stocked in a 3mm version.

  • Combines an acoustic and a moisture layer
  • For upstairs and apartment builds
  • Ask us which suits your subfloor
The adhesive

The right adhesive is part of the acoustics

The glue matters more than people expect. Vienna Woods carries the Parabond flexible adhesive system for glue-down timber floors. An MS-polymer adhesive like Parabond stays flexible once cured, which can help dampen sound transfer through the floor, subject to the full system. A rigid, brittle glue does the opposite.

Moisture is a separate job. The adhesive is not a standalone damp barrier: on a concrete subfloor you test the moisture first, then use the matching primer from the system for that reading before you glue. Getting the moisture control right protects the floor and keeps the acoustic layer doing its job.

Apartments and upper floors

Planning for apartments and body-corporate rules

On an upper floor or in an apartment, the acoustics are not just about comfort. The Building Code clause G6 sets minimum airborne and impact-sound levels for floors between tenancies, and most bodies-corporate add their own rule that a hard floor must sit on an acoustic underlay to a set rating.

Design the system to hit the number your building specifies. Vienna Woods cannot guarantee a specific decibel or impact-sound rating, because performance depends on the whole system: the number your building needs must be designed in and confirmed by the supplier or an acoustic engineer. Bring us the requirement early and we will help you build a floor spec that aims to meet it.

Engineered European oak floor in an upstairs living space
How to plan it

Four steps to a quieter timber floor

1. Check the subfloor

Flat, dry and sound. Test a concrete subfloor for moisture. A poor subfloor undoes even the best underlay.

2. Choose glue-down

For apartments and upper floors, a glued-down floor over an acoustic underlay is usually the quieter, more solid option.

3. Match underlay and adhesive

Pick the acoustic underlay and the Parabond adhesive to suit your subfloor and any rating your building sets.

4. Confirm the spec

If a body corporate or the Building Code sets a rating, have it confirmed before you order, then order free samples to feel the finish.

Good to know

Common questions

Does timber flooring make a room noisier?

Not if it is designed well. A glued-down engineered floor over a good acoustic underlay can feel quiet and solid underfoot, though the result always depends on the underlay, subfloor and install. The cheap floating floor on thin foam is what people picture when they say timber is noisy.

What is the quietest way to lay a timber floor?

Gluing the boards down over an acoustic underlay, on a flat and sound subfloor, generally gives the most solid, least hollow result, subject to the system used. Floating floors are faster but can sound more hollow.

Do I need an acoustic underlay for an apartment?

Almost always. Most bodies-corporate require a hard floor to sit on an acoustic underlay to a set rating, and the Building Code sets minimums between tenancies. Check your building rule before you choose a floor.

Can Vienna Woods guarantee a decibel rating?

No. Acoustic performance depends on the whole system, the underlay, subfloor, adhesive and install, so we cannot promise a set decibel or impact rating. We help you design a system that aims to meet the rating your building specifies, confirmed by the supplier or an acoustic engineer.

What underlay and adhesive do you recommend?

For glued-down floors we carry acoustic underlays, a cork-rubber mat and a twin-foam AquaStop, plus the Parabond adhesive system. The right combination depends on your subfloor and any acoustic rating, so talk to us with your building requirement.

Keep reading

Plan your floor

Installation guide

How we glue down and lay engineered timber floors, step by step.

Installation guide ›

Care and cleaning

Keep a quiet floor looking and feeling right for years.

Maintenance and cleaning ›

Order free samples

Feel the finish and the board in your own light before you commit.

Order samples ›

Planning a quieter floor?

Order free samples to feel the finish, or send us your building acoustic requirement and we will help you spec a floor that aims to meet it.